Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I just don't have the time to write up the guide, plus it may be a little confusing as it isn't an m35.

Che?

What do I drive? :P

Apologies for not putting up the comparison data, not so good with Excel so will take some time.

Excellent mod though and one of the first that should be done on a VQ25/VQ35 IMO

Che?

What do I drive? :P

Apologies for not putting up the comparison data, not so good with Excel so will take some time.

Excellent mod though and one of the first that should be done on a VQ25/VQ35 IMO

A tractor usually. :P

I forgive you Cam.

Is this the same principal: http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=3434&Car_Type=G35&UID=20121009182338150.101.79.229

Of course I don't think it'd fit on a VQ25DET but sounds like the same concept.

Same concept, without the thermostat, and they didn't fixing the air bleed issue. That is the pathfinder coolant mod, I imagine that assembly will hold air in the thermostat too.

Mine also replaces the stock plastic bleed point with a billet alloy body and high pressure ball valve.

Is this the same principal: http://www.conceptzp...8150.101.79.229

Of course I don't think it'd fit on a VQ25DET but sounds like the same concept.

I looked at for some time Ryan and asked if it was bolt on and what, if any mods needed to be made to install.

The response?

"It is bolt on. It bolts onto the rear of the engine but you will have to cut and weld the pipe to attach to your coolant pipe"

(referring to the male/female fitting into the pipe on the driver side of the engine)

American "bolt on" is not the same as Japanese "bolt on". :no:

"It is bolt on. It bolts onto the rear of the engine but you will have to cut and weld the pipe to attach to your coolant pipe"

(referring to the male/female fitting into the pipe on the driver side of the engine)

American "bolt on" is not the same as Japanese "bolt on". :no:

What?

Don't think its weld on. The original piece for my car (dunno about NM35s) has a female end, and the goldy coloured anodised piece pushes in and secures into the alloy pipe.

The kit seems to have a lipped edge- so it wouldn't push in, but a bit of silicon tube and a couple of clamps would sort it out just fine.

I think the bigger issue is the cross over exhaust manifold pipe, and the extra stuff round the back there.

I like how their kit "lowers temps by 20 degrees", when I read that... The temps are still controlled by the stock thermostat ffs.

Ours is the same female fitting Alex, but the cast alloy pipe is a different shape for that reason, it would hit the crossover I think. ^^

OK, no steak knives please ... I am a vegetarian!

But I do have a relatively standard 2001 stagea and my Galaxy series 2 phone takes good pics so I am interested.

Also as a noob who took a long time to do the brake wire cut simply because I couldn't find pics I think its important to have good visual guides up here. Yeah Yeah I didn't take the pics either... next time I have the glove box out and on the back seat I will do a step by step on the 'brake wire snip' for new noobs. If you don't send me steak knives and do talk me through it, I'll do the same for this. :rolleyes:

You need a 2nd person to take the pics, otherwise the camera gets covered in oily fingerprints. :P

I have ordered the fittings, they should be around a week away. When they arrive I will have 3 kits ready to send out straight away. For anyone else interested I can make them up as I go.

You need a 2nd person to take the pics, otherwise the camera gets covered in oily fingerprints. :P

I have ordered the fittings, they should be around a week away. When they arrive I will have 3 kits ready to send out straight away. For anyone else interested I can make them up as I go.

Dibs!

  • 4 weeks later...

I'm going to try and fit this kit up on the weekend. Would I be right in saying it'll take an hour or two to remove the plenum and get down to the middle of the V to fit the top plate, about half an hour to actually fit the kit, and an hour or so to put it back together?

Should be about right. You shouldn't have to disconnect the fuel rail from the lines, just flip it over onto the drivers side guard.

Make sure you silicone the top plate, you don't want it leaking...

Shouldn't need to silicone it.

We used a new gasket for each of ours although the existing gasket would probably be good enough.

Gasket is the same as on a VQ35 in case you want to grab one from Nissan, Ryan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...