Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi,

i have a 1.5 way diff in my R33 gts-t, nismo from what i have been told and its due for an oil change.

just trying to find out what oil i need, cant find much on nismo website, and dont really know what else to be looking for...

motul have Gear 300 75w-90 listed (1.5L) on their site for the standard diff

redline have a shock proof synthetic 70w-90 (bit confusing http://www.redlineoil.com.au/Uploads/Downloads/SPGO%20TR%2002_03.pdf ) listed which i recall hearing someone use

would either of this suit???? any other recommendations would be great

Edited by JCaSs1001
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411125-15-way-diff-oil/
Share on other sites

Any LSD oil that meets GL-5 specs. The Nismo LSD oil is 75W-140: http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-lsd-gear-oil-75w-140-1-liter-62152 . It really depends on how you want the LSD to engage, 75W-90 will probably be the best for purely street driving, the second number (90) is how the LSD will behave when it's reached operating temperature, a higher number like 140 will make the LSD engage more aggressively at slow speed (roundabouts, parking etc).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411125-15-way-diff-oil/#findComment-6570615
Share on other sites

nice pics of the lsx90 on google..... lol (the girl)

i found the motul/nismo 75w140, but since im using it mainly on the street mayb i should go the lower viscosity.

LSX90 is as good quality as motul/redline/kaaz???... ive never really liked castrol oils and it looks a little cheap and nasty but i spose if they have the same rating then they have to meet the same requirements....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411125-15-way-diff-oil/#findComment-6571779
Share on other sites

If you can tell a quality of an oil just by looking at it, you sir, should look at a career with News Ltd. doing their horoscopes.

I've used Castrol Edge motor oil for 8 years now, LSX90 in the diffs - no issues over 5 motors/3 cars. If the bite of the diff is too harsh, just put some Penrite friction modifier in and that should sort it out.

A friend of mine was actually in oils & oil sales for many years. It's interesting to have a chat about all things brands.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411125-15-way-diff-oil/#findComment-6571788
Share on other sites

The shockproof lineup is actually a little confusing since redline lists 2 different numbers for film thickness and fluid friction. Redline shockproof lightweight is an effective 75w140, shockproof heavyweight is an effective 75w250, shockproof superlight is the 75w90 one. People on here have used shockproof lightweight with success in the factory GTR LSD.

I use the regular Redline gear oil (non-shockproof) 75w90 in my factory LSD, personally I wanted a quiet diff, didn't want any locking up around roundabouts or chirping while trying to park. Although I did talk to my mechanic about this in the past and when servicing the Aus delivered GTRs at the dealerships they used a straight SAE 140 in the front and rear diffs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411125-15-way-diff-oil/#findComment-6572724
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

My Nismo 2-way arrived and am researching/googling what oil to run with it.

Had a look at the Castrol LSX90 and also found Castrol do a 85W-140 ( as do Nulon )

I read that Nismo oil is re-labelled from Motul ? http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=460691

Motul 75W-140

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411125-15-way-diff-oil/#findComment-7527792
Share on other sites

I used the lightweight in the evo diff and transfer, it foamed up and spewed crap everywhere, even out the seals. Now running the heavyweight with no issues.

The Stagea seems to like the lightweight in the VLSD.

For a mechanical I would probably run a standard GL5 and change it more often.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411125-15-way-diff-oil/#findComment-7528004
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
×
×
  • Create New...