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Hypergear Vs 3037R On Rb30Det

rbs30

By rbs30,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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rbs30 Collaborator

rbs30

Posted
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Ok so I have been out of the Nissan scene for a couple of years and things have changed. Last time I did a rb30 conversion i ran a gt35r .82 rear. I now drive a pintara with a stock rb25 that is getting a bit tired and blowing some smoke. I'm now getting everything together to do a 3l conversion. Nothing too full on, forged bottom end, New ecu injectors etc. Aiming for around 300rwkw.

Only thing I can't decide on is a turbo. This is my daily driver and I just want a good streetable power curve. Ive read countless threads and posts but now im just more confused. I'm between a 3037r and a hypergear. Any opinions on the better street setup would be appreciated. Also, I'm setting up for e85.

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GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

The Hypergear G3 is similar in size but has a larger exducer (turbine trim is slightly larger). I would pick the G3.

I would say the support is also better on the G3, as if it doesnt work Stao will not charge you an arm and a leg to make changes to suit your setup.

You can also use an off the shelf RB25 dump as the G3 comes with an adaptor to suit. The 3076 will need a custom dump which will set you back a few hundred at least, let along the hundreds extra you need to pay for the garret in IWG.

Also, I have found the 3076 BB CHRA to be a little delicate... I overheated one by running an undersized housing and nuked the bearing cage. It lasted less than a couple of thousand KM. Other members have also gone through garrett BB CHRAs like undies probably due to similar reasons. The HG is a journal bearing setup which is more robust.

Like I said if you pick the wrong housing for a HG (like got a IWG and realised you should get an EWG) Stao will let you return the turbo and pay a nominal fee to have it re worked.. Where as Garrett will simply send you the $700 bill for a new housing and your on your own.

If you traul the HG thread you will also see videos of an R33 with RB25/30 and a G3 smashing a 600cc sports bike. Enjoy.

Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
Posted
Also, I have found the 3076 BB CHRA to be a little delicate... I overheated one by running an undersized housing and nuked the bearing cage. It lasted less than a couple of thousand KM. Other members have also gone through garrett BB CHRAs like undies probably due to similar reasons. The HG is a journal bearing setup which is more robust.

Keen to see threads relating to this - thought you never actually got a GT3076R running properly on one of your cars (and not because of failure)?

Cowboy1600 Grand Master

Cowboy1600

Posted
Posted

Stao has invested so much time into his turbos and they work so bloody well on RBs I can't help but think they should be at the top of the tree for anyone aiming for between 200 and 350awkw.

From all reports his service is beyond reproach and his turbos are nothing short of brilliant.

I don't actually own one, yet, but have read the entire HG thread and it's hard to come to any other conclusions aside from the ones I've come up with.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Keen to see threads relating to this - thought you never actually got a GT3076R running properly on one of your cars (and not because of failure)?

On the sigma turbo I worked on with my brother. Never really told you about it, as I was never really proud of it LOL

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

If you killed a new bearing in that short a time there was something wrong with the oil or water supply. Mine has been red hot countless times without issue, even with a beanie on the housing. The water cooling does a very good job keeping the rear bearing temps under control.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

We made quite a stink over it, and the information I have given is what was determined by garrett.

The turbine housing was glowing white.

I dont mean to step on any garrett fans toes, just my own personal experience.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

3076R in .82 on a 3ltr - is the cost is no problem option.

Have a look @ results from "Al" - that basically sums it up in one graph.

~320rwkw on PULP. No need for E85 on a 3ltr with a good tune as you don't need to stuff it with boost. The response and stonking mid-range of it was absurd.

If you were going E85 IMO you'd actually get away with a smaller turbo, problem is though the exhaust housing would be too small as .82 is really the smallest you'd go on a 3ltr so you'd easily make 300rwkw on E85 with a 3076, would be quite a low boost level as well.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

3076R in .82 on a 3ltr - is the cost is no problem option.

I hate flogging a dead horse and I feel bad for the guy based on his experience, but Noel (FineLine) had a horrible time with .82 35R nuking the CHRA on his 3L.

I'm not sure I'd be game.. But sure enough it would go really farking well.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

For me having melted a 3076 CHRA on a shitty 2.6 astron motor due to a poor choice of turbine housing, and reading another member nuke cores from a similar build CHRA probably due to a similar reason makes the reference fairly relevant. When I said I hate to flog a dead horse I just mean that I hate to harp about Noel smashing cores, like he needed a constant reminder.

Remember that 300kw of 3076 is probably a not much cooler charge than 400kw of 3582 with the same exhaust housing (Gt30 .82 housing on both), except the GT30 has a more restrictive exhaust wheel.

Sure enough not all things are equal, but the feedback is entirely relevant for me and I wouldnt want to go there based on Garrett's current level of after sales support (again my own experiences tie in). In the end the 3076 on that sigma costed GCG tax x 2, and its not even a DOHC RB30...

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

300rwkw at under 20psi vs 400rwkw at over 20psi. You really want to say that more power, more heat, much higher turbo RPM - that it's relevant?

If there was really "such a problem", the internet would be alive with issues being reported all over. A couple of people having issues, convinced it's just the turbos problem? Not me.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

And as i said - look @ Al. The turbo was at maxed with 320rwkw on PULP and has never had any of the issues you are talking about. :merli:

When you see the car torching a set of tyres sliding across a skidpan with a lot more heat into things than you'd see driving around, can't be all bad

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Agreed that those are good results, but like anything there are good and bad cases. I just cant help but say buyer beware.

My 2c has been and gone anyway, on with the thread.

rbs30 Collaborator

rbs30

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok sweet. I've personally always used Garrett GT series on my cars and never had a drama but I suppose everyone has different experiences. R31nismoid, how much difference would you say there would be in the 2? I want to weigh up cost vs gains really. Id rather do it once and do it right, but at the same time I always go way over the top with these things. I don't want to go HG internal gate etc and then have to go back and change it when its not enough for me but I don't want to spend a crap load of $ on something I don't need either.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

There are plenty of results mate - you need to make that decision for yourself.

With a proper OEM -IG housing, street application only and running boost (not pussy footing around with 10psi), results would suggest they work fine.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

To be fair and cover both ends, the HG works well and is proven also.

The comment I made regarding changing the turbo from IWG to EWG applies to either. Im not suggesting there is a higher likelihood you will want to change the HG over the GT, I am suggesting that if you go IWG on either option that the HG will save your pocket twice where as the Garrett will cost you a packet.

If you do decide to go Garrett I recommend you go external gate, or at least beware what housing you are sold when you go IWG Garrett. It has been noted that there are 2 genuine Garrett housings for the IWG item with different size WG flappers. You obviously need the larger one.

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