Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

There's a handful of different reasons ranging from heavy clutch kicking, revving too high, poor assembly of the engine when it was rebuilt, damaged crank prior to rebuilding but wasn't picked up before it was assembled......and the list goes on

I'd need to see every single piece in detail to be able to tell you exactly how it failed.

I know the old owner and heard story's that he loved to reclutch it everywhere.. Also the high revving he use to do as well, I believe the crank that was in it was in good form and it good balanced and all

No, but it will have been damaged by the same f**k-knuckle driving as damaged the motor.

speaking of engine damage, does a few bounces off the limiter cause any of the above issues, i set my limit to 6000rpm but when the tyres loose grip its bit hard to stop it bouncing off it, id imagine in the drift and drag area they'd be doing this all the time..

speaking of engine damage, does a few bounces off the limiter cause any of the above issues, i set my limit to 6000rpm but when the tyres loose grip its bit hard to stop it bouncing off it, id imagine in the drift and drag area they'd be doing this all the time..

My limiter is set 300 higher than I plan to take it just so I never hit it

speaking of engine damage, does a few bounces off the limiter cause any of the above issues, i set my limit to 6000rpm but when the tyres loose grip its bit hard to stop it bouncing off it, id imagine in the drift and drag area they'd be doing this all the time..

My limiter is set 300 higher than I plan to take it just so I never hit it

Yeah, that is the heart and soul of the problem and one of the solutions. Limiter bashing is very bad. Occasional limiter clipping is probably OK, but Murphy's law dictates that you will break an oil pump drive even on an occasional limiter bump. If the engine won't self destruct by running at faster revs than some notional rev limit, then it is better to let it just rev up over that notional rev limit occasionally, rather than hit an electronic rev limit possibly more frequently.

Edited by GTSBoy

Yeah, that is the heart and soul of the problem and one of the solutions. Limiter bashing is very bad. Occasional limiter clipping is probably OK, but Murphy's law dictates that you will break an oil pump drive even on an occasional limiter bump. If the engine won't self destruct by running at faster revs than some notional rev limit, then it is better to let it just rev up ober that notional rev limit occasionally, rather than hit an electronic rev limit possibly more frequently.

thanks for the info, will raise it back up and be careful then

cheers

thanks for the info, will raise it back up and be careful then

cheers

Can also retard timing tapering back from your desired limit a few hundred revs.. Ill be getting this done on my next tune. that way you lose lots of power before limiter so you wont be going near it deliberately. And it softens the limit somewhat I believe. i.e. my limit is 7700 atm, start retarding at that to a 8000 limiter..

Has anyone got feedback on this idea?

And back on topic, how much kicking has one got to do to abliterate a thrust bearing!?!?

Haha yep f**ked on a hole

New level,

Not using anything off that motor apart from the head and cams

Started all over, bought a block girdle and crack, rods bearings main studs, motor should be finished been built this weekend

That is shockingly bad. Whatever the problem the owner would have known this engine was seriously broken LONG before he took his foot off the loud pedal.

Go out and buy a stock RB25, go from there. You can keep some ancillaries from this engine as spare.

Personally I'd take it to a different engine builder.

Hahaha funny thing is, when the owner was trying to sell it he was saying the day after it bogged down and it got hot he started it up and there was no knocks or anything... BULLSHIT lol thing would of been knocking its head off,

I got the car pretty cheap knowing something big or small could be stuffed didn't think this much damage would of been done in 2000ks tho

Yes I have started again with a NEW bottom end and the motor is been built by a different person (not the person that built it the first time)

Wow man, I just had a read thru this thread....

What a heartache, half of me feels sorry for you...

The other half says 'serves you right' for NOT test driving a car before purchase! Mate, that is such amatuare mistake to make. Sounds like you got caught up in the moment, the word 'skyline' tends to blind ppl to the obvious sometimes. Hopefully this whole experience opened your eyes a bit and has made you more cautious about buying things without inspection in the future.

What I am interested in tho is,

What was the total cost to get it runing again at the end of the day? (includes original purchase price, parts and labor)

Cause from what I have seen, it sounds like it could of cost a fortune.

Wow man, I just had a read thru this thread....

What a heartache, half of me feels sorry for you...

The other half says 'serves you right' for NOT test driving a car before purchase! Mate, that is such amatuare mistake to make. Sounds like you got caught up in the moment, the word 'skyline' tends to blind ppl to the obvious sometimes. Hopefully this whole experience opened your eyes a bit and has made you more cautious about buying things without inspection in the future.

What I am interested in tho is,

What was the total cost to get it runing again at the end of the day? (includes original purchase price, parts and labor)

Cause from what I have seen, it sounds like it could of cost a fortune.

Lol first of all mate, I bought the car off a mate, already knowing something was wrong with it, etc (head was already removed from car) no one new what could be wrong with it and on purchase I knew it could turn out to be a f**ked bottom end, and it doesn't bother me as I paid for the car at a low price (what some people would pay for rego and insurance)

I only had to build the bottom end, but I've also gone with nitto rods nitto oil pump ho volume sump new garret gt3540 new plenum new throttle body

Lol first of all mate, I bought the car off a mate, already knowing something was wrong with it, etc (head was already removed from car) no one new what could be wrong with it and on purchase I knew it could turn out to be a f**ked bottom end, and it doesn't bother me as I paid for the car at a low price (what some people would pay for rego and insurance)

I only had to build the bottom end, but I've also gone with nitto rods nitto oil pump ho volume sump new garret gt3540 new plenum new throttle body

Just seems like a hell of a lot of trouble to go thru to get a working/running Skyline.

There are 33 out there (running) for like $5K. I was just interested as to why you've chose the 'hard road' so to speak?

Might just be me, but anyone that sells you a lemon is no 'mate'... Unless he didn't want to sell it to you because of the issues with it, but you insisted, in that case he is quilt free.

Everybody's logic is different, but I just don't see the sense in buying a wreck? I could maybe also understand if you had always wanted a skyline but didn't have enough cash and then this popped up at the right price, so u grabbed it.

I'd still love to know the total cost of this exercise $$$? But if you don't want to say, I will respect that.

Either way, best of luck with it. Hope it works out.

Edited by AshR34GTT

Just seems like a hell of a lot of trouble to go thru to get a working/running Skyline.

There are 33 out there (running) for like $5K. I was just interested as to why you've chose the 'hard road' so to speak?

Might just be me, but anyone that sells you a lemon is no 'mate'... Unless he didn't want to sell it to you because of the issues with it, but you insisted, in that case he is quilt free.

Everybody's logic is different, but I just don't see the sense in buying a wreck? I could maybe also understand if you had always wanted a skyline but didn't have enough cash and then this popped up at the right price, so u grabbed it.

I'd still love to know the total cost of this exercise $$$? But if you don't want to say, I will respect that.

Either way, best of luck with it. Hope it works out.

Could have a running car for $5k but it wouldn't be anywhere near what his car is going to be and sounds as though he paid that little that if he wanted he could get a stock rb25 motor drop it in and still have done well

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...