Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does that mean if I'm the secretary for a dentist I can start performing root canals?

My point was that if you look around its possible. I had no idea my case was an exception to the rule, but I'd be willing to bet if it was as easy as it was for me it wasn't a one off, so look around until you find someone at a decent rate who's prepared to offer what you need.

if you're a qualified dentist, sure. As a qualified finance broker, I assume I can comment on such things. In order to service our brokers I need to know all aspects of the industry inside out.

I never said it was impossible, but rather said your deal was the exception to the rule.

Edited by Cowboy1600

I know another Credit U. who'll give a secured loan on a 7 yr old car.

So in addition to Ryan, is this exception #2?

It's still not the rule.

Seven years is still out of the norm, but not unheard of. Eleven years is very, very unusual. Even the PCU website says they'll go to five, so for them to negotiate to eleven is odd.

I'm sure you can find more, too. Are you aware of how many lenders there are out there?

Oh, also, did you check the comp. rate on the Greater Building Society? It's 16.41%pa. That's credit card territory. It's fine to say they'll secure it for older cars, but if that means you're paying worse than unsecured credit card or personal loan rates, then it's all a bit pointless, don't you think?

EDIT: Actually, to correct the above you can get 11.19% on cars up to 10 years old. That's pretty good. 10 years is still odd. And I can get 11.95% through a major at the moment for unsecured personal loan.

Edited by Cowboy1600

5-7 years is standard play. Any longer and the interest rates start to creep up. Also, being that its secured, if you do go with a smaller institution and they go bust (banksia), administrators can legally ask for all remaining within 30-60 days.

Welcome Steph.

Do your folks have a mortgage + you have an income + you're trustworthy?

If so, you can obtain a loan at low interest on your car if your folks take ownership of the car whilst you pay it off, and they consolidate the car with the home loan.

When I was about 8,...

I said to Dad, "Mum says that you might loan me some money for my Matchbox car collection - please?"

Dad:- "I might if you give me security on the loan."

Me:- "What's security Dad?"

Dad:- "It's when I've got you by the short 'n curleys."

Me:- "What's short 'n curleys?"

Dad:- "You'll know in 5 years."

hahahahaha Terry!!!

I couldn't agree more with you. Steph you're pretty much up sh!t creek for options. When I got my first skyline I looked into all the options I had being a uni student and working part time. I also had the same trouble you're having with the secured loan, so the bank told me to either borrow extra on my parents mortgage (they didn't have one though this option went out the window) or get an unsecured loan - the commonwealth bank told me they would be happy to loan me the money at 18.6% p.a........Yep, I know, I told them to go stick it and went and found myself another job to buy my baby :O

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...