Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello

so it is generally agreed on this forum that the power limit for a stock bottom end rb26 on 98 is around 350kw...

now I know it all comes down to how its treated and tuned etc, but do we have any indication of the upper power limit of a stock bottom end rb26 on e85?

mine seems to be making healthy power and is going strong

my brother's is making 440kw on a stock motor and has been going strong for months

know of a few other stock bottom end GTRs making the low 400kws mark on e85

The Mercury Motorsport GTR is making a whopping 600kw on a stock N1 block with this fuel

so I ask you, what do we think the limit is....

this is more of a discussion rather than trying to figure out the exact number because it does heavily depend on treatment, tune, motor condition etc etc

What do you think? Do you know of any other stock bottom rb monsters? or have you seen high power stock bottom ends rb26s with e85 fail at a certain power level??

Discuss :)

Edited by usmair
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413047-stock-rb26-power-limit-on-e85/
Share on other sites

depends on what its used for and the boost level, its common to make big power but i would guarantee unless its drag (full load for 9-12 secs at a time) etc a 500-600awkw gtr is not going to last many laps (1/2 hour at a time) in a circuit type situation...

The way its driven is the most crucial part. Thrash it and it wont last.

Squirts here and there should last.

Circuit probably wont last.

My own GTR is 402kw 22psi E72

Has only had dyno and drag time, 2 street cruises

Just have to be prepared if u want to push limits and it does let go u have to accept the fact.

Ur on 370kw now right?

Did u sort out the issue's u are having.

Yep agrees it depends on application and how it's treated.

I do have a 2.8L stroker fund put aside but would prefer not to utilise it if not necessary.

Mine is running well actually... Had a big cut in one if the piping.. Once that was replaced the boost and power was back to how it was before.

Still keen to chuck it on another dyno though... Anyone know of any awd dyno days coming up in Sydney??

Yep agrees it depends on application and how it's treated.

I do have a 2.8L stroker fund put aside but would prefer not to utilise it if not necessary.

Mine is running well actually... Had a big cut in one if the piping.. Once that was replaced the boost and power was back to how it was before.

Still keen to chuck it on another dyno though... Anyone know of any awd dyno days coming up in Sydney??

Stick it on Jez's 2WD.

Yep agrees it depends on application and how it's treated.

I do have a 2.8L stroker fund put aside but would prefer not to utilise it if not necessary.

Mine is running well actually... Had a big cut in one if the piping.. Once that was replaced the boost and power was back to how it was before.

Still keen to chuck it on another dyno though... Anyone know of any awd dyno days coming up in Sydney??

Unigroup is having one in December ive been told....would be good to see a few of the bigger HP cars around Sydney there on a level playing field

lets see if they make the power they all say they make

its a RWD dyno only but im sure we can get the front shaft taken out for such events

The Mercury Motorsport GTR is making a whopping 600kw on a stock N1 block with this fuel

800hp, or there about - but having they are building a 3.2ltr for "when" it dies.

I think no-one is under any illusion there what will happen eventually, least of all the owners of it.

Its the age old saying, if you cant afford the rebuild then dont chase the power. The fuel being used is irrelevant when its a 15yo motor.

i was impressed when i finally got my r33 GTR, and just stuck a GTX3582r with 6boost manifold twin scroll. power fc with two z32 afm 2 hks bov vent back in, and intank Tomia pump. at the same 1 bar and a good tune stock injector at close to 8000 rpm the check light would flash (injector max out)

124 mph in the quarter dont remember the ET.

but i will never buy another gtst. lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...