Jump to content
SAU Community

Big Brake Group Buy - Skyline / Silvia / Stagea / Wrx / Evo / All Makes/models

R31Nismoid

By R31Nismoid,
in Group Buys

 Share

Recommended Posts

Dahtone Racing Grand Master

Dahtone Racing

Posted
Posted

Any idea how much more wheel clearance is needed in comparison to stock 32 GTR callipers?

ie: how much further out they sit.

  • Replies 143
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Raysboostin Mentor

Raysboostin

Posted
Posted

Yes they do mate, if you click "EXPAND WINDOW" like i instructed - you get further information for each kit.

Refer attached screen shot:

post-709-0-46877800-1352377950_thumb.png

Yes i tried the "expand window" button and it just takes me back to the D2 home page.

Raysboostin Mentor

Raysboostin

Posted
Posted

Ash, I think hes talking about the options listed on the D2 site. They say you can get sport or race pads with the set.

Yes thats exactly what i meant.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ray - Maybe try a different browser - it has the info you want, i dont want to clutter the first post with "too" much info

As for Pad - just specify here which you want, ill make sure you get it :)

Updated first post to reflect it!

Any idea how much more wheel clearance is needed in comparison to stock 32 GTR callipers?

ie: how much further out they sit.

Yeah good question - don't know the answer but they certainly sit out much further compared to factory so those with really dished wheels and respective offset will likely have issues. I'll try and find out exactly how much but it will be hard as each wheel is different.

Most people that would be upgrading brakes wont be running heavy/dished rims with 5cm+ of dish for instance so its kinda your own enemy in that regard.

TE37, SA90, LMGT-4, XD-9 as examples are all perfectly fine in 18" to give you an idea

Andy-J Rookie

Andy-J

Posted
Posted

If you need more technical advice about the kits message me and ill get the information you require..

Nick033 Experienced

Nick033

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi Nismoid,

As if i'm not spending enough money at the moment, then this tasty little group buy comes along :).

I'm keen for a price on the 356mm kit front and rear also?. Car is a 96 r33 gtst

thanks mate.

also wondering if the rear kits are 8 pot also?

Edited by Nick033
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Good work getting this together Ash, they are excellent brakes and this is a great price. I have bought 3 sets over the years for different cars including racing with them at Targa Tas, they are great for the money

Any idea how much more wheel clearance is needed in comparison to stock 32 GTR callipers?

ie: how much further out they sit.

They actually need less clearance to wheel spokes than 33gtst/32 gtr calipers, they are a little narrower. They are a larger diameter disc of course

Dahtone Racing Grand Master

Dahtone Racing

Posted
Posted

If you're 110% sure on that Duncan, I'm in on the group buy.

Ive got 18" BBS LMs and they clear my stock calipers by about 5mm

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Anthony - If you are in then let us know the colour/pad type and you'll be first on the list :D

Good work getting this together Ash, they are excellent brakes and this is a great price. I have bought 3 sets over the years for different cars including racing with them at Targa Tas, they are great for the money

They actually need less clearance to wheel spokes than 33gtst/32 gtr calipers, they are a little narrower. They are a larger diameter disc of course

Awesome news - I didn't check my R33 brake difference when i swapped as i knew there wouldn't be problems.

Thanks for that info - will help others no doubt.

also wondering if the rear kits are 8 pot also?

believe they are 4-pot

Dahtone Racing Grand Master

Dahtone Racing

Posted
Posted

As soon as Duncan tells me he's 110% sure they don't stick out more than stock I'll PM you.

Can you find out if they can do anodised red?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I believe other colours can be done, but at additional cost. I'll see if it's possible via the GB. Might not be given it's meant to be a bulk order type of thing.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Yep I'm sure these sit in a mm or 2 slimmer than 32 gtr/33gtst brakes. I changed from 32 gtr to d2 and was able to ditch my spacers (was still damn close, but more space). Anf, pm sent.

I'm surprised more people aren't jumping at this. These brakes have been extensively proven by myself and others over the years. I ran mine at Targa Tas and for a season's racing, and I know the Just Jap and Donut King 32s have been running them at rallies for years too. And I've been using these on my rb30 stagea, and I had them on my 350z as well.

beenowened Enthusiast

beenowened

Posted
Posted

The race pads that you can kit in the kit are they still alright for the street? or are they a really aggressive pad.

The car isn't my daily so it doesn't get driven that much on the road

Dahtone Racing Grand Master

Dahtone Racing

Posted
Posted

f**k it put me on the list Ash, street pads for me cause I'm a girl and don't race my car LOL

Also let me know about the colour, if anodised red is a no go just get me what ever they come standard with.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yep I'm sure these sit in a mm or 2 slimmer than 32 gtr/33gtst brakes. I changed from 32 gtr to d2 and was able to ditch my spacers (was still damn close, but more space). Anf, pm sent.

I'm surprised more people aren't jumping at this. These brakes have been extensively proven by myself and others over the years. I ran mine at Targa Tas and for a season's racing, and I know the Just Jap and Donut King 32s have been running them at rallies for years too. And I've been using these on my rb30 stagea, and I had them on my 350z as well.

Best info yet!

I too am surprised not as many as on, but it does take time for people to read threads... Pricing is cheap as cheap gets really. $500 off a $2300 item (with ADR lines) - it really doesn't get any better.

The race pads that you can kit in the kit are they still alright for the street? or are they a really aggressive pad.

The car isn't my daily so it doesn't get driven that much on the road

I can't comment on how noisy the Race Pad will be or how aggressive. Maybe someone else out there has used them before and can comment.

I have used the street pad and it was certainly reasonable. Not as good as a Ferrodo DS2500, but given it came with the kit it certainly wasn't rubbish and took a fair amount of punishment which actually surprised me as I expected less :)

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
  • Author
Posted

f**k it put me on the list Ash, street pads for me cause I'm a girl and don't race my car LOL

Also let me know about the colour, if anodised red is a no go just get me what ever they come standard with.

Will find out and let you know in a week or so (off to SAU Nats as of Tues).

You do have a choice if not (RE: Red), options are in the first post :)

I had purple, IMO it looked great on a MNP GTR :D

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

The race pads that you can kit in the kit are they still alright for the street? or are they a really aggressive pad.

The car isn't my daily so it doesn't get driven that much on the road

I've never used the race pads, but the "sports" one have been fine for daily use, for rally use, and for track use.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
×
×
  • Create New...