Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not shattered, enlightened.

Mine pushing just over 500hp ATM on 98, all I need is bigger fuel system to run E85 for more powers.

My new engine set up cost around 15k, that was a built 25/30 with a steam pipe exhaust manifold, turbo, Ross balancer and CAS, and some fabrication and tuning.

BUT

At 500hp the traction issues with a RWD become blatantly obvious, useless power is useless unless its a dyno queen.

Remember though a well set up 500hp RWD car should do a high 10, or so Im lead to believe, mines run a 11.130 so there is hope.

Think, plan, appraise, plan, do.

Heh heh traction.. im not worried about that

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

I've got an RB25 here that isn't built yet but is ready to measure and assemble. It has Ross Racing pistons, Eagle forged conrods, ARP main studs and ACL race series bearings. It doesn't have a crank collar fitted (I was going to go external sump) but I can have one fitted free of charge. Wanting $4.5k and will come with warranty. No cylinder head

is it really such a hassle, plenty of result for a gt30/gtx3076 can make 500hp, its only 375kw's

so why not just put some forged pistons and a balanced bottem end in, and add the bolt on's?

all items could be bought second hand in the classifields, job done

Remember though a well set up 500hp RWD car should do a high 10, or so Im lead to believe, mines run a 11.130 so there is hope.

Or you could just get your tuner to tune your car Boost over Speed.

is it really such a hassle, plenty of result for a gt30/gtx3076 can make 500hp, its only 375kw's

so why not just put some forged pistons and a balanced bottem end in, and add the bolt on's?

I would dare say you'd need rods aswell... last thing you want is rod bolts being your un-doing.

There are alot of good results with GTX3076s... but I would still go a GTX35.... yes added lag but more power especially on 85...

Or just go a Precision... I have heard nothing but good things and I am myself thinking of going a Precision 6262 for my GTR

I would strongly suggest go see EFI and Elite if in the Brisbane Area. They are my Builders and Tuners, top blokes.

Edited by EAT26

The best thing you can do is form a total understanding of what you plan to build. Know and understand every part and don't leave a stone unturned. Put this all on paper.

Next step is to make phone calls and send emails to put dollar value to everything you know.

I definitely think 20k can scrape through.. but that is assuming you don't change anything drivetrain related. Motor setup and clutch only, tuned.

I recently built my own motor. Cost me 3500 in rounded up figures to build an SR that will hold the power your talking about. I kept the head very simple but I think I could get it there within another 1500 (5k total). All work done by me, except machine work.

it will be a long difficult process to keep it under 20k but you can do it.

Been thrashed i assume.. wow money gets you f**k all now days

Well of course it's been thrashed, why else would you build an rb26, to baby it? Put put around the city? It doesn't matter anyway as long as it has been built right and maintained properly. Why else are you planning on spending 20k on a motor to chase big power? I assume when you looked at buying your skyline you were looking for a car that had this in the ad right? "never boosted, never thrashed, never see a track" If you were to buy a motor you would be pretty stupid to not get a compression and leak down test done to it anyway to make sure it's in good shape.

easy .. but aim for less ... some sort of rb25 combo whether standard or built a little ie: bottom end appropriate bolt ons that everyone else uses to get that power (6boost, ex gate, gtx 3076 or similar, injectors, pumps) and on e85 get 450 - 500hp tops safely, spend the money left over on suspension, tyres and seat time

still need to be able to put 500 - 600 hp to the ground in a drift car... drifting is just as much about grip as turning tyres

unless your running a great suspension setup and an awesome big tyre you will find anything over 450 - 500hp pretty useless I think

Im running 440ish hp with just about every suspension thing you need etc etc on decent 265 18" tyres on 18 psi and dampers near full soft in rear for drift and still searching for more grip and turning those tyres like crazy as are most others around that mark and are competitive at a good level

unless you are going full Pro spec and can afford great tyres... .. Its not really needed imo...

The Borg Warner s300sx series is an awesome turbo for its price

on a baby 2.6 its brilliant. Even on low boost and 50% ethenol the power and response is excellent

the turbo cost me $950... couldnt be happier atm

the twinscroll manifold and plumbing up the gates was the $$$$ part :P

as already stated, its the little things that add up very quickly, but its the little things that bring the whole set up together to make it work

Or you could just get your tuner to tune your car Boost over Speed.

Have talked about this but the logistics is a PITA, does it get tuned boost/road speed for the drag radials or the semi slicks or the road tyres.

To be honest its only the drag radials or semis that get a flogging but the traction difference between the two is fairly large.

The drag radials on a prepped strip are near perfect for the boost, the semis could do with some more work in this area though, but the poor old Hankooks Ventus RS3 street tyres though are in trouble everywhere under the top of third.

For a all rounder the tuning does suffer a bit due to the different amounts of traction for different disiplines, if it was street or track only the issues would be easly fixed, but alas Im trying to do three things with the one car.

Is fun though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...