Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not shattered, enlightened.

Mine pushing just over 500hp ATM on 98, all I need is bigger fuel system to run E85 for more powers.

My new engine set up cost around 15k, that was a built 25/30 with a steam pipe exhaust manifold, turbo, Ross balancer and CAS, and some fabrication and tuning.

BUT

At 500hp the traction issues with a RWD become blatantly obvious, useless power is useless unless its a dyno queen.

Remember though a well set up 500hp RWD car should do a high 10, or so Im lead to believe, mines run a 11.130 so there is hope.

Think, plan, appraise, plan, do.

Heh heh traction.. im not worried about that

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

I've got an RB25 here that isn't built yet but is ready to measure and assemble. It has Ross Racing pistons, Eagle forged conrods, ARP main studs and ACL race series bearings. It doesn't have a crank collar fitted (I was going to go external sump) but I can have one fitted free of charge. Wanting $4.5k and will come with warranty. No cylinder head

is it really such a hassle, plenty of result for a gt30/gtx3076 can make 500hp, its only 375kw's

so why not just put some forged pistons and a balanced bottem end in, and add the bolt on's?

all items could be bought second hand in the classifields, job done

Remember though a well set up 500hp RWD car should do a high 10, or so Im lead to believe, mines run a 11.130 so there is hope.

Or you could just get your tuner to tune your car Boost over Speed.

is it really such a hassle, plenty of result for a gt30/gtx3076 can make 500hp, its only 375kw's

so why not just put some forged pistons and a balanced bottem end in, and add the bolt on's?

I would dare say you'd need rods aswell... last thing you want is rod bolts being your un-doing.

There are alot of good results with GTX3076s... but I would still go a GTX35.... yes added lag but more power especially on 85...

Or just go a Precision... I have heard nothing but good things and I am myself thinking of going a Precision 6262 for my GTR

I would strongly suggest go see EFI and Elite if in the Brisbane Area. They are my Builders and Tuners, top blokes.

Edited by EAT26

The best thing you can do is form a total understanding of what you plan to build. Know and understand every part and don't leave a stone unturned. Put this all on paper.

Next step is to make phone calls and send emails to put dollar value to everything you know.

I definitely think 20k can scrape through.. but that is assuming you don't change anything drivetrain related. Motor setup and clutch only, tuned.

I recently built my own motor. Cost me 3500 in rounded up figures to build an SR that will hold the power your talking about. I kept the head very simple but I think I could get it there within another 1500 (5k total). All work done by me, except machine work.

it will be a long difficult process to keep it under 20k but you can do it.

Been thrashed i assume.. wow money gets you f**k all now days

Well of course it's been thrashed, why else would you build an rb26, to baby it? Put put around the city? It doesn't matter anyway as long as it has been built right and maintained properly. Why else are you planning on spending 20k on a motor to chase big power? I assume when you looked at buying your skyline you were looking for a car that had this in the ad right? "never boosted, never thrashed, never see a track" If you were to buy a motor you would be pretty stupid to not get a compression and leak down test done to it anyway to make sure it's in good shape.

easy .. but aim for less ... some sort of rb25 combo whether standard or built a little ie: bottom end appropriate bolt ons that everyone else uses to get that power (6boost, ex gate, gtx 3076 or similar, injectors, pumps) and on e85 get 450 - 500hp tops safely, spend the money left over on suspension, tyres and seat time

still need to be able to put 500 - 600 hp to the ground in a drift car... drifting is just as much about grip as turning tyres

unless your running a great suspension setup and an awesome big tyre you will find anything over 450 - 500hp pretty useless I think

Im running 440ish hp with just about every suspension thing you need etc etc on decent 265 18" tyres on 18 psi and dampers near full soft in rear for drift and still searching for more grip and turning those tyres like crazy as are most others around that mark and are competitive at a good level

unless you are going full Pro spec and can afford great tyres... .. Its not really needed imo...

The Borg Warner s300sx series is an awesome turbo for its price

on a baby 2.6 its brilliant. Even on low boost and 50% ethenol the power and response is excellent

the turbo cost me $950... couldnt be happier atm

the twinscroll manifold and plumbing up the gates was the $$$$ part :P

as already stated, its the little things that add up very quickly, but its the little things that bring the whole set up together to make it work

Or you could just get your tuner to tune your car Boost over Speed.

Have talked about this but the logistics is a PITA, does it get tuned boost/road speed for the drag radials or the semi slicks or the road tyres.

To be honest its only the drag radials or semis that get a flogging but the traction difference between the two is fairly large.

The drag radials on a prepped strip are near perfect for the boost, the semis could do with some more work in this area though, but the poor old Hankooks Ventus RS3 street tyres though are in trouble everywhere under the top of third.

For a all rounder the tuning does suffer a bit due to the different amounts of traction for different disiplines, if it was street or track only the issues would be easly fixed, but alas Im trying to do three things with the one car.

Is fun though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
×
×
  • Create New...