Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That's good advice, I would prefer to find something in Australia if I can. Dealer cars haven't all been bad, I quite like this '95 R33 which is pretty mint and been in Australia for a while and looks legit. Under $20,000 too so it looks like good value.

I've learned heaps reading through this forum, it's a gold mine!

Well let's hope you strike gold Shane.

Even whilst the car might go well, behave well, appears well > check it out from under a hoist and get comp test.

Rust and tired engine will degrade the value.

As a consumer and under the well known caveat "Buyer beware", spending 40-60K on a used vehicle I'd want to know every damn intimate detail of the seller and the quality of product they bring into the country.

In my opinion, this thread has been a wealth of knowledge for a would be consumer who may not have had previous experience dealing with a used car dealer.

Whilst I agree that Slander should be not tolerated in the post, the fact is, some dealers are giving us consumers a raw deal, and doing it sneakily and washing their hands of any wrong doing ("the mentality of , it was like that when it got here" I didn't tamper with anything.. Prove it")

Knowledge is power, the more we can reach out to a buyer, the more power we have in getting a legitimate deal and avoid the lemons.

  • Like 1

Also, one i have just found out recently.... Although a REVS check will show up defects and vehicle history, it will NOT show EPA issues, we recently purchased a car then changed rego and got slapped with an EPA notice that is now our problem to get cleared! Its money we didnt plan to spend and drama we dont want to deal with! SO if its a private sale and its modified DO AN EPA CHECK!

Whilst I agree that Slander should be not tolerated in the post, the fact is, some dealers are giving us consumers a raw deal, and doing it sneakily and washing their hands of any wrong doing ("the mentality of , it was like that when it got here" I didn't tamper with anything.. Prove it")

Knowledge is power, the more we can reach out to a buyer, the more power we have in getting a legitimate deal and avoid the lemons.

yeah...if its the truth then we should spread the news and not let other skyline enthusiasts waste their hard earned $$ on lemons.

  • 2 weeks later...

It's def the same car. In both videos you can see the same white sticker on the bottom right of the rear windscreen. Not to mention the Nismo exhaust and rare colour. How do they get away with it....

Lol it's funny how they removed their youtube video which showed the true odometer reading, they must be aware of the thread...

XX means that panel has been replaced, so its safe to say all the front end panels have been replaced according to the auction sheet lolol. Sigh. No wonder it sold for only 23k at auction

I thought R cars couldn't be complied?

This is true.

It can still be brought over though as a track ONLY car.

If they indeed sell it and register it isn't this therefore "illegal" ...?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...