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Hey SAU.

I am thinking about taking my ride to the next level.. Currently 240rwhp (r34 gtt) with minor mods; just power fc, profec b ebc, pod, 3' turbo back exhaust, splitfire coils.. I basically want a really clean engine bay and i think the best way to achieve this is to go top mount, front mount aftercooler and a forward facing plenum with tb. I am aware that my injectors need to be replaced if i am to run any more boost..

I am looking to run around 300rwhp, but responsive. The parts that i need/want i THINK are:

Turbo (i haven't decided what brand or comp housing sizes yet, advices please?

High mount manifold (i would need a new exhaust made up to suit new manifold yes?)

Fmic (was thinking plasmaman?)

Fuel pump and regulator (bosch 044 should suffice)

Injectors (no clue how large i would need to go)

Forward facing plenum and fuel rail (probably go for a greddy)

Breather catch can (make the rocker covers look a little nicer...)

Cams (tomei poncams yeah..?)

Do i need a new throttle body? Are there good conversion kits avaliable? I've heard i need a metal head gasket at 300hp? But also heard if the head is torqued properly there is no need... If i do need the gasket, while the head is off do i get it ported and polished? And maybe shave 20thou off..? (:P) is there anything i am missing? Oil and water pumps should be fine ay?

I may also drop the redline down if i get all that done as i have heard overrevving is the cause of most rb engine failures.. Is this justified or 7k is just fine..?

If there is a thread covering this kind of job (as I'm sure there is) can you please link me? I am on my phone and it is really hard to search. If my questions/choices seem noob - please don't abuse! I am here to learn, let me know why i am an idiot with justified and rational claims.

Cheers dudes!

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240rwHP sounds gay. A Neo engine should be able to go to the 210 - 220 rwkW region on standard turbo and injectors, with management change. That's already pushing your 300 rwHP level. I'd be wanting to know why there isn't more power coming out than you report.

And most engine failures are not from over revving. They are in fact from hitting the rev limiter. You're perversely better off to lift the limiter to a higher value and stay off it.

Hey SAU.

I am thinking about taking my ride to the next level.. Currently 240rwhp (r34 gtt) with minor mods; just power fc, profec b ebc, pod, 3' turbo back exhaust, splitfire coils.. I basically want a really clean engine bay and i think the best way to achieve this is to go top mount, front mount aftercooler and a forward facing plenum with tb. I am aware that my injectors need to be replaced if i am to run any more boost..

I am looking to run around 300rwhp, but responsive. The parts that i need/want i THINK are:

Turbo (i haven't decided what brand or comp housing sizes yet, advices please?

High mount manifold (i would need a new exhaust made up to suit new manifold yes?)

Fmic (was thinking plasmaman?)

Fuel pump and regulator (bosch 044 should suffice)

Injectors (no clue how large i would need to go)

Forward facing plenum and fuel rail (probably go for a greddy)

Breather catch can (make the rocker covers look a little nicer...)

Cams (tomei poncams yeah..?)

Do i need a new throttle body? Are there good conversion kits avaliable? I've heard i need a metal head gasket at 300hp? But also heard if the head is torqued properly there is no need... If i do need the gasket, while the head is off do i get it ported and polished? And maybe shave 20thou off..? ( :P) is there anything i am missing? Oil and water pumps should be fine ay?

I may also drop the redline down if i get all that done as i have heard overrevving is the cause of most rb engine failures.. Is this justified or 7k is just fine..?

If there is a thread covering this kind of job (as I'm sure there is) can you please link me? I am on my phone and it is really hard to search. If my questions/choices seem noob - please don't abuse! I am here to learn, let me know why i am an idiot with justified and rational claims.

Cheers dudes!

for 300whp you can avoid a lot of this stuff!

Turbo (i haven't decided what brand or comp housing sizes yet, advices please? High flow the standard and you can achieve this. Just ensure you have an aftermarket dump pipe! will help alot

High mount manifold (i would need a new exhaust made up to suit new manifold yes?) not required

Fmic (was thinking plasmaman?) FMIC is always good and should be one of the first things to drop intake temps

Fuel pump and regulator (bosch 044 should suffice) Excellent idea and also walbro are also excellent value

Injectors (no clue how large i would need to go) plenty of bolt in options here depending on what you want to do

Forward facing plenum and fuel rail (probably go for a greddy) over kill IMO however does reduce the pipe work in the engine bay. Also plenty of options for this

Breather catch can (make the rocker covers look a little nicer...) this can be skipped as the factory breather option is pretty good as it is. Can add a tank however i doubt your car would require this at any point with the power you require unless you are going to track it

Cams (tomei poncams yeah..?) not really worth if for the small amount of increase in power to cost! spec ially if you keep the standard turbo and high flow it

Do i need a new throttle body? Are there good conversion kits avaliable? I've heard i need a metal head gasket at 300hp? But also heard if the head is torqued properly there is no need... If i do need the gasket, while the head is off do i get it ported and polished? And maybe shave 20thou off..? ( :P) is there anything i am missing? Oil and water pumps should be fine ay? all this should be fine! no need to change any of that stuff as these are more than capable of holding the power you are asking for! no need to shave head or change head gasket

all in all 300whp is easily achiveable with next to no changes with what you got but as GTSTTRK stated there is plenty of info on here

Suss the dyno results for this. Plenty of info there in relation to what people are running. Sticky at the top of the FI section.

IBTL&flamming brah

And what is wrong with wanting peoples Advice? What's wrong with my dyno results?

240rwHP sounds gay. A Neo engine should be able to go to the 210 - 220 rwkW region on standard turbo and injectors, with management change. That's already pushing your 300 rwHP level. I'd be wanting to know why there isn't more power coming out than you report.

And most engine failures are not from over revving. They are in fact from hitting the rev limiter. You're perversely better off to lift the limiter to a higher value and stay off it.

I have the dyno sheet here http://imageshack.us/scaled/landing/208/dynos.jpg

Running 13.5psi.. So you think something is wrong with my engine..?

Why is it so bad to hit limiter? I have heard it's cause the oil pump shits itself on limiter..?

all in all 300whp is easily achiveable with next to no changes with what you got but as GTSTTRK stated there is plenty of info on here

Yeah i think i will have to search a little harder.. I will also have to look at high flowing my existing,, i have never contemplated that option.. Cheers!

No one is slagging your dyno result. What they are saying is read the sticky thread at the top of this page called Rb25 Turbo Upgrade, All Dyno Results that reports what other people have done so you can see what is required to make your target power.

e.g. you don't need a ff plenum but if you really want one just use your stock throttle body. You don't need a new head gasket ot fuel pressure regulator or exhaust manifold or cams.

I have the dyno sheet here http://imageshack.us...g/208/dynos.jpg

Running 13.5psi.. So you think something is wrong with my engine..?

Why is it so bad to hit limiter? I have heard it's cause the oil pump shits itself on limiter..?

Two things. As I said, a Stock Neo with the boost wound up and some engine management should be able to do about 280 - 290 rwHP (about 210 - 220 rwkW). And that's on about 12-13 psi of boost. The second thing is that running an RB25's turbo at 13.5 psi is asking for it to explode. You need less boost, and you would want to be making more power already.

If that chart is from a low reading dyno - it's a very low reading dyno.

Two things. As I said, a Stock Neo with the boost wound up and some engine management should be able to do about 280 - 290 rwHP (about 210 - 220 rwkW). And that's on about 12-13 psi of boost. The second thing is that running an RB25's turbo at 13.5 psi is asking for it to explode. You need less boost, and you would want to be making more power already.

If that chart is from a low reading dyno - it's a very low reading dyno.

Yeah I asked the guy who tuned it if 13.5 is too high, because from what I have read 12psi is as high as you should go.. He said it is fine until 14... But yeah, when I got it dynoed stock standard I got 235rwhp at imports101 dyno, my retune with my ecu and ebc only got 240, but it was from c-red's dyno. I agree the dyno results are low, and looking at the rb25det thread (which I should have done in the first place) it should be making around 260+ rwhp.

Sorry for not reading that first guys, I must have skipped over it when I was flicking through this on my phone..

Either way, I will look into highflowing my turbo. Plasmaman also has a nice fmic+plenum+tb kit for 3k which I may also get. Probably sard800cc injectors and bosch044 fuel pump + turbosmart fuel regulator. Should easily push 300 then.

I am still keen to see what people think though, I am always happy for advice.

Its a lot of money to make a R34 Gtt engine bay look prettier, and for your power goal its not needed to make it, only the looks will benefit.

For the power you want you could have an engine bay that looks completely stock, so no hassles from the Police, money left over to spend on suspension and brakes.

I did all the suspension to work on mine first, and with the stock turbo maxed out it was a damn fun car, responsive and handled like a dream.

I made 330hp OR 246kWs on dead stock motor, stock the works, except injectors & afm with a HKS2535...

Honestly you don't need all the mods you listed at all.

Turbo YES

High mount manifold NO, STOCK

Fmic YES, JUST GET YUMCHA

Fuel pump YES and regulator NO, STOCK

Injectors (no clue how large i would need to go) YES

Forward facing plenum and fuel rail (probably go for a greddy) NO, STOCK

Breather catch can (make the rocker covers look a little nicer...) NO, DON'T NEED, U NO TRACK

Cams (tomei poncams yeah..?) NO, STOCK

Do i need a new throttle body? NO, STOCK

Are there good conversion kits avaliable? I've heard i need a metal head gasket at 300hp? But also heard if the head is torqued properly there is no need... If i do need the gasket, while the head is off do i get it ported and polished? And maybe shave 20thou off..? ( :P) is there anything i am missing? Oil and water pumps should be fine ay? NO, NO, NO WASTE OF TIME AND MONEY..

Use the change, take your missus to a nice restaurant a weekend away... even put the change into your mortgage.

Thanks for all the help guys, I guess I am biting off more then I can chew. I do think I should put more money into suspension and braking.. I would like some decent brakes and bigger swaybars.. Cheers for the advice, I will take everyones into account. Stay tuned for results.

Thanks for all the help guys, I guess I am biting off more then I can chew. I do think I should put more money into suspension and braking.. I would like some decent brakes and bigger swaybars.. Cheers for the advice, I will take everyones into account. Stay tuned for results.

GTT brake set up is quite good - check the rotors and if they are within the limits of wear maybe a light skim and have a read of the brake threads for some pads suitable for your use. Braided brakes lines and a master cylinder stopper are nice and fluid probably hasn't been changed so get some Motul RBF600 or similar.

A set of heavy sway bars will transform cornering. :yes:

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