Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

HKS suspension (very tough ride)

Tell me about your HKS suspension - is it the Hipermax adjustables? I have been in a Soarer with these they are ultra stiff...

I got a silver 1994 R32 GTR, its got ..

Tein type flex coil overs

... and the type flex? too stiff, not stiff enough, or just right? :cheers:

Ronin 09

The suspension in the car are HKS Hypermax Damper II adjustables. Got it with the car and is way too stiff. When driving it feels like your sitting on a plank of wood. Drifting in the car is really, really easy due to its stiffness and rear wheel drive characteristics. I'am in the process of getting the suspension set for drag racing so hopefully some of the harshness will go away.

89 32 GTR, cleanish stocker with 18x8.5 avs model 5's, some unknown brand of strut's & springs combo, nismo & greddy strut braces, hks filters and a big arse boost leak courtesy of a few bolts missing on the intercooler piping

99 R34 GTR VSpec - Bayside Blue

3" Blitz zorst

Power FC + HC

Trust FMIC

Apex'i Dual Pods

Tein HA's

Extreme Single Plate Clutch

Nismo 320km/hr Cluster

Serck Oil Cooler

Rays LMGT4's + Falken Zien's (Street)

Stock Rims + Advan A048's (Track)

255rwkw's @ 15psi

1.26.7 around Sandown.

Currently has one busted gearbox.

Gun Metal Grey 1989 R32 GT-R. Not here yet (sooo can't wait :) )

Pictures: http://lwells.techadmins.com/skylinegtr/

Description provided by Prestige's agent:

1989 Nissan BNR32 Skyline, 5 Speed Manual, Grey Metallic, 70,000 kms, Grade 4 [10005]

One owner with log books

Covered in dust

2 x long Scratches on driver's door window, may need replacing

Small Chip in windscreen

Engine is very clean and runs very well.

Kms definitely genuine

Small wear on steering wheel and gearshift

Looks like a non smokers car

No cig burns

Interior almost like new

Wave on LHS

Minor scratch on LHR bumpoer

Most of the A1 scratches will polish out

LHF lip has scrape / scratch

LW.

Time for an update. My bank account has taken a bit of a hammering this month, to put it mildly :)

1 x HKS EVC Type5 (aka. Version 4) - $600

2 x R32 GT-R Headlights - ~$200

1 x R34 GT-R V-spec Multi Function Display - $1500

1 set of Volk TE37 18x9.5J (custom black/gun-metal colour) - Y178,000 (just got to get them to Oz now :) ).

Total for the month: ~$4000

Eek. All that and my bloody car isn't even here yet.

Edit: Piccy of the new wheels :)

blackte37s.jpg

LW.

I feel your pain about the bank account balance LW.

mine go hammered today. I bought a turbo timer today, and ordered some coilovers, not here yet either. mines in November.

getting a quote on full exhaust tommorow. and checking out the price on compliance plus full service tommorow at autosport engineering. getting some stuff for my bday hopefully.

Iwells,

Where did ya get the multi function display from?  And does everything work the same as if it were in a 34?  Ie 'g' sensors etc??

Cheers

Brett

This should answer most of your questions :D

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=41240

LW.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...