Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

lol your bro rarely goes to school?

Yeah, they badass. Wagging 4 lyf, yo. (My y12 motto 1/4 of the time, anyway xD).

Nah, it's only really if I'm free and for some reason my mum or dad can't take them. Considering it's in the opposite direction to both work and uni, it's never "on the way" :P

Haha can't wait to get out there but I need to get myself and the car ready!

I haven't had a car for a year so i feel like i'm learning how to drive again!

What do I need to do to get my car ready for track? Some things I have seen;

  1. fire extinguisher
  2. helmet
  3. mark battery location somehow???
  4. new brake pads for track use so I dont get brake fade after 2 laps?
  5. Engine oil cooling improved?

Help me get her ready so I can beat your asses on the track :P

ALSO I need a tune BADLY, running rich and getting <300km per tank anyone got any info for me? on price/contacts tips? Car has Apexi Power FC

Edited by jukic.j

I have some little thing which gives me readings between like 12.0 and 17.0 (rough estimates cant really see it while driving) is that the thing that is supposed to be hooked up to the O2 sensor? It's also my turbo timer. I have an Apexi Power FC.

I was looking at getting a wideband is that the same and/or better than an O2 sensor?

The guy I bought it off said it needed a tune, how can I tell if it's the O2 sensor or it just needs a tune or is it a case of needing both? I'm super noob i'm just learning now.

Should have an inner eastern suburbs meet up. Balwyn maccas br0s lol.

Honestly not sure if there are any exact ways to tell, but the engine light I'd assume could light up. The only way i knew it was mine was I put two and two together. Personally I don't know a lot about wideband, but there are some threads on it I'm sure.

Edited by gtsttrk

Haha can't wait to get out there but I need to get myself and the car ready!

I haven't had a car for a year so i feel like i'm learning how to drive again!

What do I need to do to get my car ready for track? Some things I have seen;

  1. fire extinguisher
  2. helmet
  3. mark battery location somehow???
  4. new brake pads for track use so I dont get brake fade after 2 laps?
  5. Engine oil cooling improved?

Help me get her ready so I can beat your asses on the track :P

ALSO I need a tune BADLY, running rich and getting <300km per tank anyone got any info for me? on price/contacts tips? Car has Apexi Power FC

Cams licence, properly mounted fire extinguisher, helmet & stickers then off you go

As for tuners. Chequered is closing soon so Racepace, Chasers Eastside, Sabbadin Automotive all of which will look after you and give you a discount if you are a financially paid SAU VIC member

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...