Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I forgot about the ducting photos.

These two arent from an australian supercar they are from a current Newzealand V8 touring car.

They run a controlled Wilwood calliper and controlled brake duct.

Our local supercars use an almost identical ducting setup thats kevlar.

post-20349-0-14902100-1357117305_thumb.jpg

post-20349-0-73487100-1357117306_thumb.jpg

Hi sorry if I might be hijacking your thread, but this seems to be the best place to ask.

I drive a 99 R34 25GT, at the moment it's a daily driver but it's also a long term project car (Engine won't really be touched until I get myself another car for a daily driver).

I've taken it on one track day so far and I'm looking at taking it on the track a couple of times a year if that, nothing too crazy.

But I'm looking at upgrading my brakes with a big brake kit. I was looking at the D2 kits but I'm not sure what I should be getting. Can someone please give me a couple of options on what to get? I'm not sure on rotor sizes either. I'm hopefully getting TE37s soon also so they would have to fit under those..

Thanks for any help in advance

I forgot about the ducting photos.

These two arent from an australian supercar they are from a current Newzealand V8 touring car.

They run a controlled Wilwood calliper and controlled brake duct.

Our local supercars use an almost identical ducting setup thats kevlar.

post-20349-0-14902100-1357117305_thumb.jpg

post-20349-0-73487100-1357117306_thumb.jpg

So is the air and water vapour mixture just directed onto the face of the rotor on that side?

Hi sorry if I might be hijacking your thread, but this seems to be the best place to ask.

I drive a 99 R34 25GT, at the moment it's a daily driver but it's also a long term project car (Engine won't really be touched until I get myself another car for a daily driver).

I've taken it on one track day so far and I'm looking at taking it on the track a couple of times a year if that, nothing too crazy.

But I'm looking at upgrading my brakes with a big brake kit. I was looking at the D2 kits but I'm not sure what I should be getting. Can someone please give me a couple of options on what to get? I'm not sure on rotor sizes either. I'm hopefully getting TE37s soon also so they would have to fit under those..

Thanks for any help in advance

The 330mm D2 kit is the safe bet, they will fit under most 17s. If you want the 355 you will need 18s, the TE37 design is great for caliper clearance and should not be an issue. Really, the question should be what size tyres do you want to run (17s are much cheaper than 18s) then choose the wheel, then choose the larger or smaller brakes to suit. Either kit will be fine unless you use the brakes more than you need to ;)

Brad, we need pics of the other side of the rotor...I'm willing to bet the vent runs to the centre of the disc not the outside face, but that's not how it looks in those pics

here is a couple from both sides of a VY taxi.

This car has a front mounted rack unlike the previous car that was rear mounted.

The ducts on this one are mounted at the front of the upright obviously.

The NZ VY has a very similar thing but smaller.

post-20349-0-25108400-1357169582_thumb.jpg

post-20349-0-28673800-1357169585_thumb.jpg

post-20349-0-21352100-1357169587_thumb.jpg

post-20349-0-44282800-1357169589_thumb.jpg

post-20349-0-49515000-1357169591_thumb.jpg

There is a carbon peice that locates onto the duct which adapts into a 3inch spiral tube to allow the flex before entering very similar kevlar ducting to the front bar.

The kevlar parts from that VY are removed at the moment and being repaired.

lots of space when there is no driveshaft going to the hub eh? Interesting the shape of that final duct, I bet they have done a lot of testing about how much air to aim directly at which part of the disc vs how much to direct at the centre

Real race cars only have two drive shafts Duncan ;)

I wouldn't want to change the ducts that's for sure. That car has done 3 Bathurst 1000 events and finished all 3 times as well as sandown enduros so if say they did something right.

The differences between teams is interesting to look at though.

A lot of the time they run the cars with the ducting blocked off at the bumper.

Spot on the money. There is a properly made up funnel that crates a neat shape that suit the inside of the rotor.

Jacking up a supercar now to take photo of it.

I see said the blind man! Great job Brad, thanks mate.

No kidding with space due to no driveshafts!!!

Anyone wants Alcon rear kit ? SInce they offer free shipping for rear kit, I will order it, and will keep it for spares, but I thought if anyone wants rear too we can drop price little bit http://www.jdl-brakes.com/alcon-adv-extreme-brake-kit-rear-4-pot-o350x28-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr.html

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Anyone wants Alcon rear kit ? SInce they offer free shipping for rear kit, I will order it, and will keep it for spares, but I thought if anyone wants rear too we can drop price little bit http://www.jdl-brake...33-r34-gtr.html

I got mine Alcons from JDL, great service and stuff

These seem to be pretty cheap http://www.ebay.com....=item2ec12dc8e3

Does anyone have experience with them?

I bought my first R32 GTR with Wilwood 330 mm kit on it. It was good, but not better than Brembo from R34 which I fitted few months later. Maybe I had some issue with pads from this kit, and that's why it didn't perform as it should. Anyway, I wasn't happy. It's still my #1 http://www.jdl-brakes.com/special-offer-alcon-adv-extreme-brake-kit-front-and-rear-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr.html

Those wilwoods are a very average setup overall.

The callipers have a terrible open bridge design and they flex horribly. The lug mounts they use also flex a lot if you dont have the callipers spot on centred to the rotor.

I've used them on lighter road cars like MX5's and pulsars in the past with little problems

I fitted a set up to a Toyota 86 a fortnight ago only to remove them after a track day and change over to an AP calliper. The pedal feel was horrendous at 3 corners at Wakefield park.

AP's being tested on Wednesday but already on the road they feel so much nicer under firm braking.

  • 3 weeks later...

I have Alcon front kit with 343 mm rotors, but thinking about these kits http://www.jdl-brakes.com/special-offer-alcon-adv-extreme-brake-kit-front-and-rear-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr.html What wheel do I need to clear 6 pistons calipers with 365 mm rotors ? 18x9 +15 would be ok ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheers. Skyline is back on the menu, can’t get rid of it. It’s like a child you don’t want, or herpes 
    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...