Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have Alcon front kit with 343 mm rotors, but thinking about these kits http://www.jdl-brakes.com/special-offer-alcon-adv-extreme-brake-kit-front-and-rear-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr.html What wheel do I need to clear 6 pistons calipers with 365 mm rotors ? 18x9 +15 would be ok ?

What wheels specifically? A R34 GTR rim won't really work as any small stone that gets caught between the caliper and wheel will get caught for example.

At JDL website, you can download caliper profile, and check clearance with your wheels : http://www.jdl-brakes.com/alcon-adv-extreme-brake-kit-front-6-pot-o365x32-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr.html

From my experience 9x18 ET15 will work ok with Alcon 6 piston caliper.

Will depend on the type of rim, I used the template and it did not clear my 18x10 +15 work meisters deep dish

Which model of work meisters do you have ?

My brother-in-law, has 18x9.5 +23 meisters on his R33GTR, and there is still 4-5 mm of clearance. Did you use template properly ?

Did you mean 6 pot Alcon kit as here : http://www.jdl-brakes.com/alcon-adv-extreme-brake-kit-front-6-pot-o365x32-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr.html

It would all depend on the disk faces of the rim:

R disk for: big caliper clearance.

A disk for: meh calipers.

O disk for: who cares about stopping, take the calipers off and get as much diiiiiish as you can.

mine are O disk, due to dish it tapers back on the back of the rim which fouls the calipers

It would all depend on the disk faces of the rim:

R disk for: big caliper clearance.

A disk for: meh calipers.

O disk for: who cares about stopping, take the calipers off and get as much diiiiiish as you can.

Is the ATTKD brake kit from just jap the same product as D2's?

Also, UAS has a few interesting big brake kits under $3k

http://nismo.com.au/pricelists/pricelist_gtrbrakes.htm

Are they worthwhile upgrades? Namely the AP Racing upgrade

Which one is the 3k? Most prices appear to be either front or rear kits only not a set, may as well jump on the D2 groupbuy

Is the ATTKD brake kit from just jap the same product as D2's?

Also, UAS has a few interesting big brake kits under $3k

http://nismo.com.au/pricelists/pricelist_gtrbrakes.htm

Are they worthwhile upgrades? Namely the AP Racing upgrade

  • 2 weeks later...

Cheers thanks for the feedback

Will these fit under a lmgt4 18 x 9.5 +12? and yeah ive seen the template but im a lazy bastard lol

6CF28A3A-64B1-4D3B-85ED-AC1446AD8C5F-147

Yep. Here they are on mine (Using GTR JOEY's LM's at 18 x 9.5 + 12). They don't really fit under a R34 GTR wheel. Yes the wheel will go on, but there is so little room that little stones get caught between the caliper and the wheel.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...