Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You people worry me! Running out of brakes on the road when running 365mm rotord with DS2500s ! :)

Not so much running out of brakes, More the lack of feel and bite that the DS2500's have, I feel I have to push on the pedal too much during hard driving with them.

hi all

just curious.... anyone tried the R35 brake upgrade or the Brembo GTR or GT range? are the brembo ones bolt on for the R34?

also when u changed your calipers did u upgrade ur master brake cylinder?

The R35 brakes are not a bolt on kit, They require some adapter mounts to be made to suit, and some ring inserts for the handbrake hubs, And you will need some big inside diameter wheels to fit the 380mm disks.

The master cylinder you have on an R34 GTR is the biggest Nissan make, It is generally fine for big brake kits.

Not so much running out of brakes, More the lack of feel and bite that the DS2500's have, I feel I have to push on the pedal too much during hard driving with them.

That's a better description. It still stopped, but the feel and confidence were not there.

Not so much running out of brakes, More the lack of feel and bite that the DS2500's have, I feel I have to push on the pedal too much during hard driving with them.

See I didn't mind them and I'd had DS3000 also, but then like all things - without trying 10 other types - it's hard to get an idea of if better/worse and personal preference does play a big part especially with Roy lol, he hates everything that everyone else likes :D

The R35 brakes are not a bolt on kit, They require some adapter mounts to be made to suit, and some ring inserts for the handbrake hubs, And you will need some big inside diameter wheels to fit the 380mm disks.

The master cylinder you have on an R34 GTR is the biggest Nissan make, It is generally fine for big brake kits.

yea...heard abt the R35s

any idea about the Brembo GTR/GT series?

i thought he was just talking abt the R35 brembos...

the Brembo GTR/GT series... i thought since they are vehicle specific... shouldnt they come with brackets and not require custom brackets etc?

http://www.brembo.com/it/Auto/Racing/Prodotti-strada/Documents/GT-GTR-RACING%20PACK%20Application%20list.pdf

i thought he was just talking abt the R35 brembos...

the Brembo GTR/GT series... i thought since they are vehicle specific... shouldnt they come with brackets and not require custom brackets etc?

http://www.brembo.com/it/Auto/Racing/Prodotti-strada/Documents/GT-GTR-RACING%20PACK%20Application%20list.pdf

yes they will
  • Like 1

What set of Brembo's?

Bolting onto what car?

the Brembo GTR/GT series for the skylines

seems like there is quite a lot of interest for the R35's calipers onto R34 etc but there a lot of fabrication etc and the rear drum doesnt work unless u weld some insert etc...so was wondering why not the GTR/GT series which would probably have all the installation brackets etc to fit nicely onto, say, the R34. and the rear drum would work without weld etc.

anyone got experience with the GTR/GT series?

the Brembo GTR/GT series for the skylines

 

seems like there is quite a lot of interest for the R35's calipers onto R34 etc but there a lot of fabrication etc and the rear drum doesnt work unless u weld some insert etc...so was wondering why not the GTR/GT series which would probably have all the installation brackets etc to fit nicely onto, say, the R34. and the rear drum would work without weld etc.

 

anyone got experience with the GTR/GT series?

I'm assuming you mean upgrading from a NON-Brembo car...

By and large it's a waste of money and far better options for the $$$ out there.

If you received 100 GBP from discounted price, it means 1400 GBP discount from retail price.

I went ahead with the order because even after postage, taxes and discounts it was still a lot cheaper than sourcing them locally. All depends on exchange rate as well.

Yes indeed. After all cost it is MUCH MUCH cheaper than you can get locally. Also, very fast shippping, good communication, and after sales support. I installed mine kit two days ago, and I can say "WOW" Compared to my previous setup with Perofrmance Friction rotors and Endless pads, it is night and day. If anyone consider Alcon BBK go for JDL, and you won't be disappointed. Highly recommended : http://www.jdl-brakes.com/special-offer-alcon-adv-extreme-brake-kit-front-and-rear-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr.html

See I didn't mind them and I'd had DS3000 also, but then like all things - without trying 10 other types - it's hard to get an idea of if better/worse and personal preference does play a big part especially with Roy lol, he hates everything that everyone else likes :D

LOL, not quite the truth but close. But it stems from the fact that next to nobody plays with a non-ABS rwd car. So what works for others doesnt work for me. THe DS2500s are pretty average pad, agree....but for a non ABS car then pads that are progressive without a load of bite can be easier to modulate. If you have ABS then anchors ahoy and bitey pads are quite nice...but even the ABS crew will notice that with the bitey pads that the ABS kicks in. Then you hear people complaining that the ABS is too sensitive and kicks in too early :)

Hmm that can be quite scary Ash especially since I'm going start hitting up on some serious track days. The PMU's apparently have more "feel up front" rather than the rears but will have to really feel the whole setup and adjust to it

LOL...Who knows. When I asked those questiosn about your setup inc tyre type and condition front to rear...I assumed you were running the same pad!

So is it squirmy always. On cold stops, Only after hard stops? Generally if you are buying a properly engineered front and rear kit for a car you run the same pads front to rear. Rule being its all about temps and pads generally all behave differently. The rear rotors are generally smaller in diameter and thickness because they need less cooling. Whilst the rears will always run cooler than the fronts, they will run in the operating window of the pad temp range and offer the bite, consistency of the front pad ad generally the same co-efficient of friction.

Mixing that range and friction co-effecients could contribute to a bot of instability in the brakes. Running a DS2500 that offers the same friction coeffient cold as the PMU Club racers when they get up to temp at 300deg ...on paper I am guessing when you get the fronts well up to temp the instability may improve

My old brake setup could only run rather dull pads in the rear. If I ran the same compound as the front it was a handful. Now with my current setup I am able to run the same compound all round and the car is happy

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
    • To re-cap, I bought: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8G-Infiniti-Q50-Q60-2014_1601171829627.html?spm=a2756.trade-list-buyer.0.0.2cd476e9FTIlKE As you can see, if I bought 20 it was $653, but I bought 1 so it was $1,170. I was very tempted to buy 2 and resell 1 at 25% cheaper. @MBS206, I am not sure if they do a Kluger one, here is their list but it might be there under a global model name: http://www.lsailt.com/product/android-interface?page=1 Keep in mind these full android replacements have basically all the bits a phone does (cpu, ram, storage, wifi, bluetooth, usb interfaces) other than a screen (it uses a host), thus the $800+ cost. Android Auto screen mirroring is MUCH cheaper as it's just a cut down shell, input mirroring and output mirroring BTW I also need that "screen off" feature, it is much harder to see wildlife even if a dash is reasonably dark. Both the Fuga and V37 have display off buttons for night use, they just come back on for a second or 3 if you interact with it, eg skip a song.
×
×
  • Create New...