Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just finished replacing the power window motor on my drivers side, me and a mate did the job in just under 2 hours and neither of us have replaced a window motor on these cars before. Now we are just doing a bit more research into the door lock actuator replace because it looks very tricky.. then replacing the door lock actuator tomorrow morning.

Finally i have a normal window rather than a slow one and i now have the "auto" up and down feature back lol.

Went to test fit the KF today, One nut was a bitch to take off. Got it about half a turn then it seized... needed to usle a heap of leverage then this happened FML

20130119_123854.jpg

Fit it up anyway still with the 15mm spacer so effective 18x9-4

20130119_123944.jpg

20130119_123949.jpg

But then had a think about it, really hard to find just a pair of 19in KF's (haven't seen one yet). Even if I find a cheap pair by the time I get them, buy new lips, get them cut off and welded back on get the centers of all 4 painted to match. I'm going to be well over the price of just buying a boss set of 19's off Yahoo if I include the purchase of the 18's

Have a my eye on a few sets so will see what happens

GT-S are for sale, 2k ONO

But then had a think about it, really hard to find just a pair of 19in KF's (haven't seen one yet). Even if I find a cheap pair by the time I get them, buy new lips, get them cut off and welded back on get the centers of all 4 painted to match. I'm going to be well over the price of just buying a boss set of 19's off Yahoo if I include the purchase of the 18's

Have a my eye on a few sets so will see what happens

plus you can get something that fits, and doesnt need spacers - which is always a plus.

i love vs-kf's - but i think even in 19's, this car makes them look small.

i'm sure you'll find somethin aggro though. cannot wait for my rims to land!

Just painted the OEM Grill Gloss Black. Looks badass :). Might post pics later.

i'm interested to see how long it lasts.

i painted a chrome badge on my last car - it was showing signs of chipping with a couple of weeks - i was amazed. figured the v35 grill would do the same so held off painting it. or did you plastidip?

How did you go about that mate? Looking at doing the same next weekend.

Bought a kit from autobarn that had a cleaning solution sandpaper and a uv sealant. So hopefully lasts a little while. Just took me a few hours because I took the lights off the car

My grill was rattle canned. It was covered in chips when I bought it so got an oem style black plastic one

My grill has been rattle canned in satin black. We sanded it down, prepped it with plastic primer and then put a crap load of coats of satin black on. Very thin coats over the whole weekend. Pretty much a coat every 30-45min or so. Covered it with a few light coats of clear and it's still fine 3 months later.

Still looks wicked.

hey locky - have you got a link to the grill you bought? I want to buy one and vinyl wrap it - without stuffing up my OEM one.

this was my achievement for the weekend. I basically disappeared into the garage on sat morning and didn't reappear until midnight on sunday. But have now installed the DD H/U - ran new larger power wiring to the amp, ran all my RCA's, camera, trigger wires etc and vinyl wrapped the center console - which was such a stupid amount of work I'm embarassed to even say how long I spent doing it.

IMG_1038.jpg

Edited by SMOKEYC34

Just one i grabbed off ebay. I bought to hold the Cobb Accessport for my Mazda - but it fits the iPhone perfectly. I love it. Cost about $35 - type in 'floor mounted phone holder' in ebay - should be able to find it. It bolts to the front corner bolt of the seat mounting point. The mount and the column are made from metal - it is bomb proof. It bends, swivels etc so you can position it perfectly - I can pretty much rest my hand on the gear shifter and then just control the iphone with my finger......not that I condone that while driving.

Hey Mat. Are you after a girll with or without the emblem? You can get a emblemless raw fiberglass one from Iconic Dynamic. That's where I got mine then I painted it satin black.

thanks tyler, yeah have seen those ones but they're v expensive! I was going to have a go at wrapping mine first - but i have seen there are some on ebay for like 140ish - just wanting to know how they fit, and if thats what Locky is using.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...