Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol, wax on and on and on annnndddd wax off...

Today i fitted up braided areoflow water lines to the turbo, no more perished lines i hope.

And i ordered some Federal FZ-101s :)

WOOHOO!! She f**king runs again! Roars like the beast it is once more! Finally...

Saw the plugs you removed on the table in the garage.

FArk me if they weren't in there when it rolled off the production line in Japan.

Much longer and I reckon you would not have got them out - Srsly!

Reminded me of the sailors that become part of the ship in the Pirate's of the Carribean movie :P

Once a year at least. Not once a decade .

Happy 4u she runs great again :thumbsup:

Saw the plugs you removed on the table in the garage.

FArk me if they weren't in there when it rolled off the production line in Japan.

Much longer and I reckon you would not have got them out - Srsly!

Reminded me of the sailors that become part of the ship in the Pirate's of the Carribean movie :P

Once a year at least. Not once a decade .

Happy 4u she runs great again :thumbsup:

Now all it needs is a buff

Thats the dumbest comment ever. Just wax it more often god.

I'm not sure you actually realise just HOW BAD the paintwork on it is lol, I honestly don't consider it worth any kind of attention whatsoever. I've long given up caring how the car looks, and now only care how it runs. However if it won't require a wax more than once a month, then I'm happy to give it that attention.

Saw the plugs you removed on the table in the garage.

FArk me if they weren't in there when it rolled off the production line in Japan.

Much longer and I reckon you would not have got them out - Srsly!

Reminded me of the sailors that become part of the ship in the Pirate's of the Carribean movie :P

Once a year at least. Not once a decade .

Happy 4u she runs great again :thumbsup:

hahaha yeah I reckon! I left them there (in order if cyl.1 - 6 from edge of table) to get your opinion lol....concerning though, looks like the coilpacks weren't properly sealing against the head and water was getting in there. They weren't hard to remove, but f**k there was some serious rust/oxidisation going on. When I pulled cyl.1 out the thread was wet with oil/fuel residue and my god it stunk. The rest were pretty shithouse too. So much for Glenn's advice of "those plugs are expensive, don't replace them until it stops running properly" LOL

Now it seems my alternator belt is on its way out. Stupid thing is squeaking ever so quietly while engine is idling, and the belt itself feels a bit average. Le sigh.

I'm not sure you actually realise just HOW BAD the paintwork on it is lol, I honestly don't consider it worth any kind of attention whatsoever. I've long given up caring how the car looks, and now only care how it runs. However if it won't require a wax more than once a month, then I'm happy to give it that attention.

Oh ive seen it haha.... A bit of love mate and she will be all good! its such a beautiful colour its a shame to let it die off.

Oh ive seen it haha.... A bit of love mate and she will be all good! its such a beautiful colour its a shame to let it die off.

I know :( have been considering having it vinyl wrapped in a slightly lighter matte purple though, considering the cracked/flaking condition of the paint on the front bar.

I know :( have been considering having it vinyl wrapped in a slightly lighter matte purple though, considering the cracked/flaking condition of the paint on the front bar.

step 1. Un bolt front bar.

Step 2. Get paint code

Step 3. Sand Back.

Step 4. Paint.

That will cost about $80 worth of paint just use acrylic since its plastic.

Not even 2 days work! Show car inc.

It's aftermarket fibreglass. Had it painted recently. Looked like ass within a month. Bar flexes and the paint cracks and flakes.

man thats crap. You have it fully bolted on? like no bolts missing?

Yes and no. Bar doesn't have much movement in it at all however it took damage when I aquaplaned across a lane and up onto a median strip :( still, had continued to get worse since then....either way, I have 0 interest in going down the route of using paint again unless I found a cheap PLASTIC bar.

"those plugs are expensive, don't replace them until it stops running properly" LOL

Had the same advice from the Nice Middle aged Fella I got my car from.

"Spark plugs were replaced in the last 10000km (receipt in folder) if you ever do it again

use the same ones - trust me!! - Autolite Double Platinum APP3924"

Supposed to last 80,000kms !!!

Within 10,000kms of purchase, it started to misfire but only on idle. (so less than 20,000kms all up)

NGK BKR6EYA coppers have gone in twice now (every 10,000ks and Never a Problem.) :rolleyes:

i service the GTR every 5000km and do sparkes every 15.... Seriously they are not that expensive reall. And since the GTR isnt a daily i dont collect many KMs on it lol

hahaha yeah I reckon! I left them there (in order if cyl.1 - 6 from edge of table) to get your opinion lol....concerning though, looks like the coilpacks weren't properly sealing against the head and water was getting in there. They weren't hard to remove, but f**k there was some serious rust/oxidisation going on. When I pulled cyl.1 out the thread was wet with oil/fuel residue and my god it stunk. The rest were pretty shithouse too. So much for Glenn's advice of "those plugs are expensive, don't replace them until it stops running properly" LOL

The outside of the plug was oxidised and rusting.

So yeah the coilpacks could not have been secured as well as they could have.

In Canberra I'd leave the valley cover on to stop water pooling at the base of the coilpack/plug too (like an umbrella).

Seriously removing them to stop heat build up and destroying your coilpacks - I call myth. Race cars and regular racing - yeh aite...

The gap and colour of all the plugs looked good really (from a tuning aspect). Although I wasn't there when you pulled number 1 out to fine oil/fuel (wet)

Ive seen brown, white, black, grey, oily and corroded plugs. and yours actually looked better than most. So what ever the tune and A/F ratio it's :thumbsup:

PRIME EXAMPLE AS TO WHY I WANT NOTHING TO DO WITH EVER FIXING THE BODYWORK OF MY CAR:

Just f**king ruined the front bumper on a gutter trying to turn around in a street near my work coz of some impatient flamin mongrel in a van. Completely forgot how f**king atrocious the turning circle in the skyline is...

The damage is significantly worse than the pictures make it appear.

PzfB0.jpg

jJfbn.jpg

Thanks man, but like I said earlier - I'm not painting. Ever. Enough bad experiences with paintwork to conclude it's a terrible solution.

I'll sooner sticker-bomb the f**k out of it than paint it.

And I'll sooner douse it in petrol and burn it than that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...