Jump to content
SAU Community

Sau A.c.t. - What Did You Do To Your Car Today?


Recommended Posts

More to the above story unfortunately... :/

however, about 10 kms into the drive to work on this -40 morning, my rear window decided one piece was not enough.

attachicon.gifSkyHatch Broked Glass.jpg

It was iced over and the demister was turned on but had melted and then CrrraAAcckK.

Not having a good run my friend :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

More to the above story unfortunately... :/

however, about 10 kms into the drive to work on this -40 morning, my rear window decided one piece was not enough.

SkyHatch Broked Glass.jpg

It was iced over and the demister was turned on but had melted and then CrrraAAcckK.

Nooo. There is a red one down the road from mine that hasn't moved in 6 months. Take their one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fixed ciggy lighter that was only working while the lights were off...

Required reterminating the various other things hanging off the ciggarette lighter's power rail, there were things mixing series and paralell cabling that shouldnt have been mixing causing some parts to be shorted while others were fine. Seemed that the lighter's negative was plugged into the "Lights on" line.

Replaced faulty Tacho too... had decided to go disco on me while the SAFC was still reading normal revs. Had fingers crossed as didnt want to have to get Cam angle sensor looked at just yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Was looking at the little black box for ages before finding it on google (speedo adjuster)... and the use of double core insulated wire, and the block of piggy back connectors... did a voltage test to try to trace back things, popped 4 fuses. Black/Orange to ground knocked out the driving lights and "Lights on" accessories (which expected), Black/Blue threw the lighter, the accessories, and the driving lights...

pulled it all out, started again... didnt have the wire to run a new line from the fuses so still stealing from the lighter as before.

Also a while back figured out why the siren wasnt working on the alarm system, battery in it was fine, there was a broken wire under the dash, one of the clips were cable tied too tightly and had a broken connection... you could tap it and the siren would click as the circuit was made... clipped the clip and soldered the wires together.

Now if i could only keep it clean, such a dirt magnet

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, Jaycar speedo adjuster was put in by the previous owner due to manual conversion.

Glad you've got it all sorted. :thumbsup:

I bought this.

post-78856-0-11219000-1437898478_thumb.jpg

2002 Liberty RX. First non NISSAN Ever!!!

Stoked.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Of course sometimes you cannot go with the cheaper alternative but I try to weigh it up for the application - am I competing or am I going to the track ten times p/yr. As long as there’s enough information out there to back the cheaper alternative as a good option I’ll go for that.   I’m a bit of a bastard though as it’s my job to reduce costs, particularly on non income generating assets. EUR 500 saved for the diff + EUR 1,000 saved on BC racing over Bilstein and then say EUR 300 versus EUR 600 on an off brand windscreen versus OEM (for example) soon accumulates. I mean, I’m probably gonna put the car in the ditch anyway. Absolutely do not take this as a justification for always buying cheap shitty parts, just a rationale for doing your research and considering what’s necessary for your application.    
    • All the above effort, time, swapping out parts in the dark (i.e. no O2 data). You're literally running in the dark.
    • Looks like both of my cars have pressure switch issues. The R32 GTR has 18 flashes on the ATTESSA controller which is "ETS pressure switch circuit". The 4WD light is intermittent, and often just restarting the car clears it. There is an $300 replacement option https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/285675135148?itmmeta=01HXN3YKRGKQ08GRZ5KFKKZWJT&hash=item428390a0ac:g:6CcAAOSwWxBltMEG so if it becomes a permanent issue and I can confirm that the switch is the issue, i have a solution. The NM35 is reporting C1208, and disconnecting the switch causes the 4WD light to go away. Translating from the Japanese shop manual "when the pressure is reduced to 2.6MPa (377 psi) or less: conduction occurs when the pressure increases to 3.8MPa (550 psi) or less: conduction is present. Reference: • Immediately after the E-TS actuator motor stops, the pressure inside the accumulator is high and there is no continuity." Not sure how good the translation is but from what i can deduce this means the switch is normally closed (NC) and as the pressure builds from 0 to 550 psi the switch stays closed, then opens and 550 psi. As the pressure drops from 550 psi to 377 psi the switch stays open then closes again at 377 psi. Is that how these things work? These pressures are a lot higher than the R32 ("control pressure 0-228 psi") but i'm hoping i can find a generic switch (like they've done for the R32) to use as a replacement. Maybe something like https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/355586397452?epid=1676016964&itmmeta=01HXN534AF22ACTG6TGDDQGEQ7&hash=item52ca99d50c:g:mAEAAOSw8ilmBcMh&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8LtWdNlWHgyJ%2F3cbw25S2A1lde3qBi3fJii4T3lQavCz4kpqiD42SmBa4FocMvXCjcxiowHjb8vZ8%2BWxc53BkHv781tkStSnCDaenfGKC3bIp0keK20dfsn9LoPa3TfqaEmAydqqyKobgTdXsGGzsl%2BRjOVGuD8OIpOv%2B0wMl7aUtHg0iJtojbtzA%2BRS8Xfm8Ufjuvz4niwrqglAXFUbkL6J%2FGuHPeeECZhLBBN3iNM1Swl94Fv5zE95YK%2B5O6dxDN1ySNOjdMxkA8yaprbuwRHFQv1nlGh%2FWjekj6EUFR2%2FO4HTsoKtSAkY0Mj1w1uf1w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6zFjKXtYw but with a lower close pressure, and thread adapter if required. Am i dreaming?
    • That is a dead f**king short of B+ to ground. Scary.
×
×
  • Create New...