Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

TopSecretFrontBumperC_zpsed6d2b5e.jpg

This is a Top Secret Front Bumper for an R34 GTT. I have been after one of these for quite a while now but can't seem to find one. Anyone know where i can get my hands on one? I put up a "want to buy" ad a while ago but no luck. I am in VICTORIA so any local places to get one would be cool but i'm also open to getting one from interstate if necessary.

F.Y.I: The GTR style T.S Front Bumper is different. It does not have the side vents like the GTT one does. It also has two indicator holes on the passenger's side, one of which is used as a sort of intake i believe, but only a single one on the driver's side. I am not interested in this GTR style one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417682-where-can-i-buy-this-front-bumper/
Share on other sites

can get it from carmate

Yeah actually just found that site today. Price seems just a little steep but at least i now a place that has them in stock. Too bad it's in NSW. Not sure how much delivery is. I'll call 'em tomorrow.

Err nope, that is definitely a top secret bar for a Gtt.

This is the z-tune bar (for a gtt, but it's still the same as for the gtr)

Look at the lower section below the opening for the FMIC and the additional lip.

Quite different to that of the top secret bar pictured above.

Nissan_R34_GTT_N_4f252c96a42b3.jpg

Stephen (RusH_) is on the right page. I've definitely done my home work on this one guys. The front bar i'm after, regardless of whether it looks like a z-tune copy, is a Top Secret Front Bumper for a GTT. However, i am in the market for some z-tune side skirts for a GTT.

i heard carmate isn't the best place to buy parts..... correct me if i'm wrong though. I just vaguely remember reading it somewhere.

I'm not too sure about where to find one of these front bars in VIC, but i know justjap have them in NSW.

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17379&cat=&page=1

I'm not 100% sure, but i think this is the GTR style one because it doesn't have the side vents that you said you wanted.

I'm also curious where to find a TS front bar with the vents. I want one too lol.

Stephen (RusH_) is on the right page. I've definitely done my home work on this one guys. The front bar i'm after, regardless of whether it looks like a z-tune copy, is a Top Secret Front Bumper for a GTT. However, i am in the market for some z-tune side skirts for a GTT.

JSAI make the z-tune/nismo style skirts and rear pods for the GTT, i plan to grab a set in about a month.

Have heard mixed things about the service but willing to give it a go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
    • There are guys on Facebook under, Infiniti Owners Australia   https://www.facebook.com/share/g/1Z3RbPqx4k/?mibextid=wwXIfr What Whp are you after and I can help, and join this Q group in the states. https://www.facebook.com/share/g/19A59cN3JR/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Does any of you guys have instagram pages for your builds? Keen to see some Aussie builds. I still can't figure out how to post photos in here.
×
×
  • Create New...