Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, got a few queries with the instal of my plasmaman,

Firstly, I think I have a fairly old one, I got in second hand with t/b, reason I think that is it has an adapter place for aac valve instead of it bolting to side of plenum.

What I need to know is where to plumb things basically.

I run a haltech map sensor, To shorten the feed hose length should I tap into engine side of plenum half way up?

Where do I run the little hose that goes to the carbon canister from stock t/b?

Where do I plumb my pcv into?

Where do i get pcv from rb26 covers?

Im sure theres more ill think of but this is the main bits. Couldnt find much on the forums about these...

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417808-plasmaman-fitment-questions/
Share on other sites

Hmmm, my Plazmaman has like 7 fittings underneath.

Adapter plate is a little odd. The R33 IAC should bolt up to the rear of the Plazmaman? Unless the customer who ordered asked for something unusual like i did with mine... However, early models could have been done like this. I dont know.

If the MAP sensor is a 1/8" NPT thread you should be able to thread it into the Plazmaman directly.

With the PCV and RB26 covers, you'll have to custom make something. The PCV on an RB26 is on the balance tube of the inlet plenum. You'll probably want to have the LH rocker cover going into the turbo intake and the RH going into the Plazmaman via the PCV one way valve.

The little hose that goes from the carbon canister to the factory throttle body is a good question. I would also like the answer to this as i'll need to know eventually as well. I would dare say, it will need to go to the intercooler pipe just before the throttle body.

The larger pipe from the carbon caniser is plumbed directly to the plenum as well.

If you only have 3 fittings, before fitting the plenum maybe its a good idea to drill and tap some more holes in it.

You need provisions for:

Brake Booster

Fuel Press Reg

Carbon Canister

PCV

MAP Sensor

Boost Guage

Thanks kitto, ill have to tap fittings in at appropriate places.... id think the carbon canister tube off stock t/b goes to engine side as it'd actuate the diaphram in canister to suck on vacuum/close on boost?

id think the carbon canister tube off stock t/b goes to engine side as it'd actuate the diaphram in canister to suck on vacuum/close on boost?

This is my theory as well.

But if you have a look at where that little hose goes to on the throttle body, the hole pops up just barely on the intercooler side of the throttle body...

You can get manifolds with lots of takeoffs for various vacuum functions so you don't have to turn the plasmaman into a colendar.

Like this (some screw into the plenum some are just connected with a hose):

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ADD-Universal-Vacuum-Manifold-turbo-boost-vacuum-wastegate-intake-manifold-/110993986088?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d7c1d228

And don't most people just bin the carbon canister?

Its not the smartest idea to delete the Carbon Canister. The only annoying thing about it is that it takes up space.

The larger tube is connected directly to the plenum, this is where the vapours enter the engine from the canister.

The smaller hose is to open the one way valve under vacuum and light throttle conditions. Why it is placed exactly where it is on the tip of the throttle plate i am unsure.

On R34's there is a solenoid inline with the small hose. From the canister the small hoses goes to the solenoid valve, then to the plenum. It's operated by the ECU. Obviously the ECU chooses the best time to open the valve. IE, the valve is open all the time until atmospheric pressure and above is reached.

Sounds like it may not be a plazmaman and instead one of the chinese knock offs?

Definately a plasmaman. just has 3 1/8 bsp holes near t/b and 1 3/8 bsp toward back for aac valve. Might tap 1 in middle for map and plumb booster into aac line

Hmmm, my Plazmaman has like 7 fittings underneath.

Adapter plate is a little odd. The R33 IAC should bolt up to the rear of the Plazmaman? Unless the customer who ordered asked for something unusual like i did with mine... However, early models could have been done like this. I dont know.

If the MAP sensor is a 1/8" NPT thread you should be able to thread it into the Plazmaman directly.

With the PCV and RB26 covers, you'll have to custom make something. The PCV on an RB26 is on the balance tube of the inlet plenum. You'll probably want to have the LH rocker cover going into the turbo intake and the RH going into the Plazmaman via the PCV one way valve.

The little hose that goes from the carbon canister to the factory throttle body is a good question. I would also like the answer to this as i'll need to know eventually as well. I would dare say, it will need to go to the intercooler pipe just before the throttle body.

The larger pipe from the carbon caniser is plumbed directly to the plenum as well.

If you only have 3 fittings, before fitting the plenum maybe its a good idea to drill and tap some more holes in it.

You need provisions for:

Brake Booster

Fuel Press Reg

Carbon Canister

PCV

MAP Sensor

Boost Guage

I believe that Plazmaman used to release the plenums with the AAC mounted onto the actual plenum itself but changed the design to a remote AAC block so as to not interfere with fitment of larger injectors? The block allows a certain degree of freedom when mounting the AAC (provided your lines and wires are long enough).

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, so started fitting it, finally. going to tap into it for the map, and booster so to reduce the length of lines. The carbon can lines can go to existing fittings on plenum.

Got a question, where the fast idle valve connects to plenum underneath in same place as stock one does, can I tee the aac remote line into the fast idle valve hose without issues? Couldnt see it harming idle.

  • 2 weeks later...

Results!

From stock manifold to plazmaman with exact boost, went from 260kw to 270, and was last done in winter on a 20 degree day and new one 35+ and very humid. Thats at 16psi, when we went to high boost (23psi) there was not a great power gain but the power curve held hard to 7400, whereas peak prior was at 6000,, not quite back to back but a good guide.

dyno says losses in midrange. But air temp may play a large part. 20 degrees vs 35.... Its moved the power 200 revs up the range, but its got such a nice power curve now, was like a 2 stroke lol, and feels so smooth now and also makes a massive amount of intake noise when its coming on boost just under 5k.

And I just realised 1 more factor, Im running a 100cell cat, whereas wasnt with last one, so taking all into account, maybe midrange is better now?

Plus there was a fair amount of wheelspin on dyno this time. got new p-zero's and they are like jelly.

After comparing charts, my old printout had a peak of 338kw at 6k, where now it peaks at 7400 326kw, at 6k I only have 285kw.

The tractive effort has gone from 8000n to under 7000n. Still to take into account temps were way hotter, and humid, and running cat.

It feels very seamless power wise and feels to pull harder, is it possible to have gained torque even though tractive efforts gone down?

Dyno seems to say less, but I feel more..

Unless you do a back to back dyno with only the plenum changing you probably shouldn't waste any time looking at the old dyno plot. If the seat-of-pants dyno tells you it is better with the plenum, then one of two things is true. 1) It's placebo, which does happen, or 2) the car has either lost real power since the last dyno, or it is just the weather and cat causing the difference. Impossible to know unless you can back it up with some more testing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...