Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How can i make my window rubber surrounds black again? They're chalky and look shit.

I've tried 4 coats of back to black and it lasted a few months but I'm after something that will be glossy and last. You detailers must know of something ;)

to rejuvinate it needs constant reapplication for an extended period...so every 2 weeks for 6 months for eg, it should start looking better...Otherwise you are only masking it really, think of it like putting a coat of paint on rusty metal.

Wether you use a cheap or expensive product , you will find applying a little product often will work better in the long term than applying alot all at once..

back to black is a reasonable product it may just be your application is wrong..

Alot of people like aerospace 303, personally I find Mequirs rubber gel works good too for a cheap product, ..its purple and it smells like bubblegum..:D..I'll apply it every six months or so and my rubbers all still look great..

something else that works is leather conditioner, it has alot of oils in it that seem to soak into rubber well..

otherwise get in contact with waxit Im sure he will have something for rejuvenation of old rubber

I'd recommend Cquartz Dlux. Not cheap but it lasts.

Here's a good review.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/52351-carpro-cquartz-dlux-review.html

Thank you :) I actually read the same thread a few years ago but could never find it in australia. just found it on waxit.

to rejuvinate it needs constant reapplication for an extended period...so every 2 weeks for 6 months for eg, it should start looking better...Otherwise you are only masking it really, think of it like putting a coat of paint on rusty metal.

Wether you use a cheap or expensive product , you will find applying a little product often will work better in the long term than applying alot all at once..

back to black is a reasonable product it may just be your application is wrong..

Alot of people like aerospace 303, personally I find Mequirs rubber gel works good too for a cheap product, ..its purple and it smells like bubblegum.. :D..I'll apply it every six months or so and my rubbers all still look great..

something else that works is leather conditioner, it has alot of oils in it that seem to soak into rubber well..

otherwise get in contact with waxit Im sure he will have something for rejuvenation of old rubber

That was exactly my intention, to mask it. The last time i looked at these products i could not find anything to get rid of the chalky stains. I just found duragloss 481 on carcareproducts, they seem confident about their product. Now that I can get rid of the chalky stains I can get something that will restore shine and protect :)

I will give the rubbers a hit with duragloss 481 then use cquartz dlux.

Thank you for your help you two :)

I just bought this Turtle Wax black tinted acrylic trim coating, looks pretty interesting. Normally not a fan of Turtle Wax products but they have been bringing out some good stuff lately, especially the towels and applicators

https://www.turtlewax.com/shop/products/turtle-wax-jet-black-black-endura-shine-trim-coating

Edited by junkie

i used to get that kind of result from the original version of meguiars nxt wax, the gloss, flake pop and swirl filling were incredible. too bad it would last a week max. current nxt 2.0 is pretty average unfortunately, does last longer but nothing special otherwise

I tried this new synthetic paint sealant. Wolfgang deep gloss.

20140622_132626_zpsc229fc15.jpg

DSCN1648_zps39e9aecc.jpg

i just thought this was an interesting comparison...its coated in AMMO sealant, 2 coats and 1 of ammo creme...It doesnt do alot for the flek and colour contrast as you can see, yours has darker blacks and the purple has more pop though lighting and camera type is probably playing a part too< im assuming yours is a phone picture that usually have higher built in contrast settings.....I really wanted to use Polishangels coatings like this purple Audi, the wetness is amazing..

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=281360095379185&set=vb.279199828928545&type=2&theater

but time and budget restraints meant i used what I had here....have been using the ammo system on my cressida for the last year almost, its definately holding up ok and comes up like new after every wash..but it does tend to flatten colours and metallics a bit...I still find california gold wax to give a richer shine than the ammo, but has nowhere near as good protection.....will be recoating the cres with Polishangel glasscoat next time and probably a layer of Blue xilion to try get some more colour into it...Its just looking a bit bland for my liking...

my next test will be chemical guys blacklight and hybrid v7, bought both but been too lazy to actually use them. meant to produce a pretty awesome result. the next item on my to buy list is naviwax ioncoat. not produced anymore but can still be found online

Yep that was a phone pic. Its amazing how different sealants bring out different colours on MNP cars. Both look nice and wet.

My phone seems to capture it well. I havent had a wax/sealant that makes it this purple. And I must say I like it.

20140625_111818_zpsaghlaxrs.jpg

  • Like 2

You've just 10 fold increased my MNP boner Hadouken, that looks incredible! More pics plx :)

Has anyone tried 'Meguiar's M66 Quick Detailer Polish', I've scored about 3l worth and providing weather holds out this weekend might give it a run.

  • 2 weeks later...

Another weekend, another black R34...

started here...yes the wholoe car was like this :/

DSCN1870_zpsc40a9e26.jpg

fg500 and some yellow pad got it here

DSCN1874_zpsb47bb1ea.jpg

FF4000 and a blue scholl pad got it here

DSCN1875_zps15a8c26e.jpg

Quick coat of sealer and carnuba got it done...

DSCN1883_zpsb7901669.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Fresh paint:

Sand 1500, polish 5 or 6 times, wash, Lime prime light, Dodo hard candy, Dodo rainforest rub, Autoglym extra gloss protection. Some "black wow" on the old grey rubbers came up well.

post-89755-0-48498900-1406167412_thumb.jpg post-89755-0-81240300-1406167508_thumb.jpg post-89755-0-22823300-1406167644_thumb.jpg

post-89755-0-78672900-1406167702_thumb.jpg post-89755-0-40014000-1406167835_thumb.jpg post-89755-0-80689000-1406167917_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...