Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.r31house.co.jp/season2/used_detail2.php?car_code=310058

gtp006a.JPG

~$6,600 AUD, add skirts and a rear bumper and that'd be killer!

If you had some serious ke$h I'd be after this GTS-R though...

http://www.r31house.co.jp/season2/used_detail2.php?car_code=310051

gtsr013a.jpg

(I'm assuming the RB26 equipped GTS-X available would be a hassle importing due to the engine)

  • 2 months later...

so,any updates mate? did you decide on what you are getting?

another option,rather than DR30, have you considered early HR30 coupe? L28 bored and stroked to 3.1, lumpy cam and big carbs, and with the early model coupes at barely 1100kg ish would be a sweet ride!

  • 2 weeks later...

Been having some engine trouble with my DC2R, which more or less threw cold water on getting a sweet older ride anytime soon. Right now just saving cash so I can get it looked at and hopefully fixed, but smoke billowing out from the exhaust is never a good sign :(

Rang up Seeker and they said $3000 for a head gasket, and about $7000 to reco the engine! Damn... Seriously hoping I can get it done cheaper than that!

Still clinging to the hope that I will have enough coin by the end of the year to pick up an older ride. I was keen to get an Evo 7/8, but after riding in my friends totally worked 8MR recently, I have to say I was left a bit wanting. It didn't feel fast at all. And if it did feel mildly quick, it was in a very techno/industrial/agricultural way as is the case with most Subies/Lancers...didn't feel sporting at all. Next option is an FD RX7 to bring back home, and can get an engine rebuild here for about $2500-3000. Was thinking of getting a good and clean but higher mileage one on the cheap and freshening up the engine before bringing it back. But now with the exchange rate plummeting and the head aches of compliancing and all the other jazz that will happen with any SEVS car, the easy way out is to just pick up a modified sick older ride. I'll probably be leaving Japan end of the year, and might not be bothered with the hassle of a SEVS import, so may just do the pre-89 rule car plus my Integra.

Still keen on a two-door FJ20 DR30, an AW11 MR2 4AGZE targa-top, or even a 3.0 litre manual old-school Soarer. An '88 CA18 S13 Silvia would be nice too, but S13's are probably cheaper in Australia than Japan now these days.

Good thing about the pre-89 cars, is that the rules on having new tyres/compliancing/must be totally standard and all the other jazz they expect of SEVS cars isn't anywhere near as strict. Could bring one over with mild mods and it wouldn't be an issue. I like that.

  • 2 weeks later...

Been having some engine trouble with my DC2R, which more or less threw cold water on getting a sweet older ride anytime soon. Right now just saving cash so I can get it looked at and hopefully fixed, but smoke billowing out from the exhaust is never a good sign :(

Rang up Seeker and they said $3000 for a head gasket, and about $7000 to reco the engine! Damn... Seriously hoping I can get it done cheaper than that!

Still clinging to the hope that I will have enough coin by the end of the year to pick up an older ride. I was keen to get an Evo 7/8, but after riding in my friends totally worked 8MR recently, I have to say I was left a bit wanting. It didn't feel fast at all. And if it did feel mildly quick, it was in a very techno/industrial/agricultural way as is the case with most Subies/Lancers...didn't feel sporting at all. Next option is an FD RX7 to bring back home, and can get an engine rebuild here for about $2500-3000. Was thinking of getting a good and clean but higher mileage one on the cheap and freshening up the engine before bringing it back. But now with the exchange rate plummeting and the head aches of compliancing and all the other jazz that will happen with any SEVS car, the easy way out is to just pick up a modified sick older ride. I'll probably be leaving Japan end of the year, and might not be bothered with the hassle of a SEVS import, so may just do the pre-89 rule car plus my Integra.

Still keen on a two-door FJ20 DR30, an AW11 MR2 4AGZE targa-top, or even a 3.0 litre manual old-school Soarer. An '88 CA18 S13 Silvia would be nice too, but S13's are probably cheaper in Australia than Japan now these days.

Good thing about the pre-89 cars, is that the rules on having new tyres/compliancing/must be totally standard and all the other jazz they expect of SEVS cars isn't anywhere near as strict. Could bring one over with mild mods and it wouldn't be an issue. I like that.

Make sure you do all the paperwork properly for the personal import before it leaves, proving how long you have had car for etc, parking rental reciepts etc

Why dont you get some ae86's? theres plenty that i see on yahoo jp that could be brought back for a fair profit

Otherwise id bring a few track cars back, s15/fd/jzx100 etc

Pm me if you need container help, lands bris tho, and yards in osaka

Make sure you do all the paperwork properly for the personal import before it leaves, proving how long you have had car for etc, parking rental reciepts etc

Why dont you get some ae86's? theres plenty that i see on yahoo jp that could be brought back for a fair profit

Otherwise id bring a few track cars back, s15/fd/jzx100 etc

Pm me if you need container help, lands bris tho, and yards in osaka

Thanks mate. I'll send you a PM. Might have to see what you could help me bring in - as I could have a car complied (if its a SEVS car) in QLD, then have it brought over to WA I suppose?

Most of the AE86s here for sale are DOGS. You do see the occasional one in a not-so-sought after color/trim/bodystyle combo that is still a great condition car but nobody wants it, as they are all fanboys here looking for the clones of various D1 cars, famous manga/anime AE86s and so on.

I have the feeling that back in Australia, people wouldn't be so picky?

C130 Laurels start at around $10k, and stretch to as much as $30k. Most are around the $15k - $25k mark. Way too expensive.

Shame of the stupid pre-89 rule... I'd love a C33 Laurel.

When will this dumb rule change? I mean, these cars are 25 years old now. Surely the gov't will wake up and change this law and eventually make it pre-90, or pre-91 etc etc as the years go by. Does anybody know if this ruling will change? Or is it still going to be pre-89 only even years from now?

Will change to the 30 year rule in 2019.

When they are all rusted-out sh*tboxes that pose absolutely ZERO threat to the locally delivered Australian models (which is ostensibly the motive for the gov't to be so draconian). Hell, they are already zero threat now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...