Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Leverege is the answer!. I presume it's a 1/2 plug where you use the breaker bar or ratchet straight into the plug? If yes, put the breaker bar on it and put and extension onto the breaker bar (piece of pipe). They get overtightened when reinstalled for some reason. They really only need to be firmly tightened not done up like they're holding the whole car together like they seem to be most of the time!

Otherwise you could try a bit of heat (a bit, not glowing red!) around the bung. This will hopefully soften any seallant that's on it and enlarge the housing a little to loosen it as the alloy will expand quicker than the steel plug.

Good luck!

If you can get someone else to maintain the pressure on the breaker bar while it's being heated that will make life easier and you don't over or under heat it. IT will let go as soon as it reaches the right temp. Don't burn him though, he might not come back....

Ok so I jacked it up, and with afew extra inches or leverage and using my foot (nearly doing my back lol) she cracked, you beauty !!

good news :)

I was going to say...be careful with 1/2" extensions/breaker bars etc. Often the plugs are a little round already and you can really f**k it.

You can get 13mm square fittings for this exact job. They are a lot tighter fit and won't round it off. The one I have is 13mm square at one and and 19mm hex at the other so you can put a big spanner or bar over it to get the leverage you need.

But I'll be f**ked if I understand why they are alawys so damn tight! Even when I put them back in a little loose, it takes f**king superman to take them off again!

wouldnt go crazy with the leverage as you might strip the 1/2" socket, tap and heat works for sure

damn straight, good tips.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can see between the water jacket and cyl 3 there wasn't a hard line of combustion gas. It certainly appears that the issue is coming from there. Yes, checked the tension. All at 100ft lbs where I set them 5 years ago. These blocks can crack but generally when they have been over bored. Mine is only 0.5mm oversize at 89.5mm. They break between cylinders around the 91mm mark. No sign of that with mine. My gut feeling is the head gasket lifted a while back when the studs stretched and i bandaided it by retorquing the studs. It's finally let go.
    • My Nismo 1.5 churps a bit on reverse turns when cold, but besides that feels like a stock diff.
    • Yes, but, I paid cash and I'm pretty sure the receipt was in the bin 10 minutes after I got home Note to self, keep all receipts
    • Bunnings would have just handed you your money back on that one!
    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
×
×
  • Create New...