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Brake Cooling Setup's

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Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Without meaning to take this off topic, is the question just general interest, or do you have a heat problem?

Ducting might be useful or even imperative in some race setups, but I guess most brake issues in road/light track cars could easily be fixed in other ways.

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

Mock up of the original ducts that run from the front lip (they were missing on my car when i bought it) and UAS deflectors on the radius rods. Nismo used to make a similar sort of thing.

EDIT: They're UAS deflectors in MagicMikes pix ^

TTR34 Community Regular

TTR34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Im running Brembo's after a few laps just noticed they were heating up a bit, will be going down the ducting just wanted to see what some people have done.

I like your set up MagicMikeZ32 did you notice much difference?

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

The standard gtr setup has brake ducts in the lower lip, under the under tray. N1s had factory fitted deflectors on the castor rods that UAS copied in the pics above.

But that is all a little lightweight really. All a castor rod deflector can do is waft air in the right direction, and I'd be willing to be the result of a comparable, back to back test is 0o or thereabouts.

If you want a serious ducting setup check Risking's posts in the motorsport section, it shows a proper duct that runs to the inside of the disc, that would make a big difference.

Im running Brembo's after a few laps just noticed they were heating up a bit, will be going down the ducting just wanted to see what some people have done.

I like your set up MagicMikeZ32 did you notice much difference?

See the real issue there is that the brembos are a very small increase over the standard setup (maybe 10% larger for pads and discs). There are much better upgrades, cheaper like the D2 kits.

Having said that, our class required us to run standard disc and caliper for years which means I had to run the brembo setup. After trying a heap of pads and fluids over the years, Hawk DT-60 and Motul RBF600 gave me acceptable braking even over 1 hour races with those calipers and discs. That setup was focussed on making the absolute most out of what i had to run, rather than adding a little cooling....as you can see they ran very hot but still worked perfectly (RIP Oran Park night racing :( )

hot_brakes.jpg

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

^ as above - the rotors are just too small for multi laps really. Lesser heat dissipation capacity.

Ducting isn't going to make a world of difference.

What will?

Put a 356mm upgrade on, you'll have a lot more capacity and get a good 2-3 laps more out of it.

Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted

Air deflectors do very little other than direct some cool air onto the inner face of the rotor......

A rotor has two faces and the core is where the majority of the heat is disipated to. The air needs to go into the centre of the rotor hat to be of any benifit what so ever.

I've just done a set of alluminium bolt on adaptors that bolt to the slipper mounting holes and have a provision to attach a 2.5 or 3.0inch duct hose to very similar to those I posted from a v8 Supercar.

Directs air straight into the rotors core instead of just splashing cold air at one of the rotors faces.

Ill post up some photos when they are installed again next week

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted (edited)

Air deflectors do very little other than direct some cool air onto the inner face of the rotor......

A rotor has two faces and the core is where the majority of the heat is disipated to. The air needs to go into the centre of the rotor hat to be of any benifit what so ever.

I've just done a set of alluminium bolt on adaptors that bolt to the slipper mounting holes and have a provision to attach a 2.5 or 3.0inch duct hose to very similar to those I posted from a v8 Supercar.

Directs air straight into the rotors core instead of just splashing cold air at one of the rotors faces.

Ill post up some photos when they are installed again next week

Those deflectors look like would do a decent job of pushing air towards and into the core. At a guess they'd have to at least double the airflow available to the vanes. With a bit of shaping/massaging of the surface of the deflectors then they'd direct air even better into the core. But yes, ducting would work much better again.

Something similar from Porsche forums: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/167598-brake-upgrade-35-works-993-deflectors.html

Edited by simpletool
kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

What about water cooling setups?

Water that is squirted into the core of the rotor.. I remember seeing a kit for the R35 but i havn't heard much about them?

I believe V8 supercars have this method as well.

But when do the activate? Is it in a a preset duty cycle, or they only come on when brakes are applied etc?

I know ducting is easier, but having a huge oil cooler on one side and a power steering cooler on the other doesn't give a lot of room to get fresh air into the brake rotors.

blackrex Mentor

blackrex

Posted
Posted

They run front brake temp sensors in the V8's and this is used to control the water spray for the brakes, you still need to have ducted airflow for the water spray to work, as it is designed to atomise the water in the airflow. Just spraying the water onto the inside face of the disk will not work, and may lead to failure of the rotor due to excessive localised cooling.

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted

They run front brake temp sensors in the V8's and this is used to control the water spray for the brakes, you still need to have ducted airflow for the water spray to work, as it is designed to atomise the water in the airflow. Just spraying the water onto the inside face of the disk will not work, and may lead to failure of the rotor due to excessive localised cooling.

Yes, definitely something that needs careful attention. Too much water application and crack, schnap, eeerrriiiiggghhhhh, bbrrrkkkkkkkssshhhhhh, ouch.

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

They run front brake temp sensors in the V8's and this is used to control the water spray for the brakes, you still need to have ducted airflow for the water spray to work, as it is designed to atomise the water in the airflow. Just spraying the water onto the inside face of the disk will not work, and may lead to failure of the rotor due to excessive localised cooling.

This was what i was thinking as well. Too much and yes you'll crack a rotor easily.

Yeah ok, so the ECU monitors brake rotor temp and once over a set point, it enables water sprayers (in a duty cycle arrangement i assume?)

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