Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all long time stalker thought I'd ask a few questions regarding these turbos looked at all rb20 dyno pages n google but no luck I followed Roy's build up and followed similar set up only I have kando turbo love it but looking at upgrading and a e85 set up is Teflon lines a necessary or myth thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419440-presision-turbo-on-rb20/
Share on other sites

the Kando lines are fine

all the precision turbos will be pretty laggy on a normal RB20. more fun could be had from a smaller more cost effective option.

what kando have you got on it now? are you getting the most from that, before you go bigger? to my knowledge the RB20 will start to show its constraints closer to the 300kw mark.

Yer I agree with the turbo it's a tdo6 l2 only 2000kms old feels strong in power delivery on 18psi I was looking at something just to bring boost in earlier just geting a few ideas and toying with all info I can I'd love 300kw I'm an avid fan of rb20s would rather build it probly rather than half arsed

Hi all long time stalker thought I'd ask a few questions regarding these turbos looked at all rb20 dyno pages n google but no luck I followed Roy's build up and followed similar set up only I have kando turbo love it but looking at upgrading and a e85 set up .... tdo6 l2 only 2000kms old feels strong in power delivery on 18psi I was looking at something just to bring boost in earlier just geting a few ideas and toying with all info I can I'd love 300kw I'm an avid fan of rb20s would rather build it probly rather than half arsed

To be fair your turbo would have to be one of the better matches you could get capable of hitting 300kw (on E85?) on an RB20. The Precision turbos are generally speaking targetting much more power than you are after and will be laggier than the 20G - I am guessing you want similar power to the 20G but with less lag if you can help it?

Check Roys on here 300kw with TD06

His original post said he was inspired by Roy's and went a Kando equivalent originally - can even see it in my quote above

As above the Precision items are generally aimed at more power than 300 with high pressure ratios. You will be giving away response instead of gaining.

I would stick with the current turbo and just work on improving the setup in whole. Make sure that all your intake piping and exhaust is done well and no issues. From there I would invest in a flex capable ECU as you will probably pick up some off boost torque and get closer to the 300 mark once you move to ethanol.

I dare say the move to flex will give you exactly what your looking for (assuming your car is set up well as is).

Good luck mate, sounds like a nice car already.

Yer I read every review on the turbo before buying it cheap and reliable IMO

Even looked at at rb24 but well even at mates rates that shit is expensive

300kw would be great and with Roy's surprised me with the money he spent in good upgrades list power

Seams simple is better so still looking at cams and head porting just to get the best from it but really it comes down to sensible mods not omg its brand Name stuff I must have it!! But I have a problem with oil pumps aswell what cheap upgrades are there can only find nitto ones

Thanks for all your help guys will be a while till it gets sorted as I work away I have a build up page started so will update it

Good stuff mate it sounds like your on the right track.

Personally I wouldn't port or cam an RB20, they are pretty sweet as they are provided you dont expect way over 300kw. Moving to an adaptronic ecu or a Link G4 will give you the ability to run a GM ethanol content sensor and can get a flex tune done.

That will give you the ability to fill up with 98 for the results you have already, or pop in E85/eflex for the results your chasing. Changing to ethanol should give you the additional spool and power your actually looking for, and be the best bang for buck based on your current position. Cheaper than head work with better results IMHO.

It's going to depend on which precision turbo you get. The 6262 is going to be REALLY laggy on the RB20. I have the Old SC61 on my 20 and it's about 100rpm slower spooling than the 6262. I talked to a guy that had one on his 20 and he said he hit full boost @ 5100 rpm while I did it @ 5200. The PTE 5555 might be a quicker spooling turbo since it's smaller.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...