Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Do any of you love birds have any experience with machining costs ?

I know you do.

I am rebuilding my 26 and am looking for a very rough estimate on the costs of crank preparation (if indeed mine is still in good condition).

The reason I ask is that if the costs to prep and ready the crank for reuse are substantial I will just buy a 2.8/9 stroker kit as it's the crank that adds cost to these kits.

Just as an offside, I will be using this turbo so will welcome the extra cubes:

http://www.full-race.com/store/turbos/borgwarner-airwerks/borgwarner-s300sx-fmw-turbo.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419452-rebuilding-my-26/
Share on other sites

Generally a crank needs

  • Plugs drilled out, tapped, cleaned and grub screws inserted
  • Clean in hot bathCheck for straightness.
  • Check for clearances to block and girdle
  • Check for clearances to rod big ends
  • Linish lightly or for oversize bearings
  • Fit Crank collar if it is 32 or early 33 crank.

A rough guide is $500-$1000, towards the higher end if a bearing was spun on the old motor.

Cheers guys,

I am leaning towards a stroker because the price I saw for a new crank is about 1500 from JJ and Ebay etc.

another 1500 can get me a 2.8/2.9 crank in a kit for about 5000.

Unless any of you know a better place to look/have a better idea.

And a brand new crank is only $1100 or something from Nissan.

A lot of people just buy a new one for this reason.

And after a day at a machine shop for an open day, I'd be sending a brand new crank to be check up on anyway...

And after a day at a machine shop for an open day, I'd be sending a brand new crank to be check up on anyway...

totally agree. I've had tolerance issues with brand new nissan cranks and a brand new n1 block. always get it measured before you use it

Thanks for responses.

What do you guys think of these bad boys ?

http://www.ebay.com....1#ht_500wt_1180

http://www.ebay.com....=1#ht_500wt_923

Do I really need a stroker ?

One thing to think about is the weight of the cranks etc.

From memory the BC crank weighs a bit more than the HKS one as an example. So depends what you want characteristics wise and use of the car to boot.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...