Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

@ Mark - here was my previous GT3071 setup revved to 8,000rpm so 4,000rpm would be around 112klms

Dyno11.jpg

Did the S15 have a 5 speed box in it?

If the gearing etc is the same that makes GTScoTT's GTX3071R capable of 20psi < 4000rpm - which is really quite impressive :)

Just picked up the car. Haven't had a chance to go for a proper drive yet, but here's the dyno plot:

post-83859-0-80387900-1404295174_thumb.jpg

Boost is both lower and later than I was expecting. I got the impression talking to Josh that they didn't quite solve the boost issue they were having. He mentioned potentially using a different rated actuator spring to improve things (currently 10psi).

Very happy with the quality of the install they've done though. They really took the effort to keep the stock / black theme, and using quality fittings for things like BOV return. Can post up pics if anyone is interested.

Hmm it's strange that it's coming on that late, looking at the curve it doesn't look to be a boost control thing to me. You are running Nistune? Is VCT being used?

That boost curve doesn't look like it is necessarily using the full potential of the turbo but as you mentioned, good chance the actuator is making it impossible to go any further. It's decent power for the boost through, I reckon - and while in the range of what seemed doable there could be a bit more in it with a stiffer actuator.

Let us know how it drives when you get more of a chance! Be interested in how quickly and easily it comes on, the curve makes it look no better than my old GT3076R which doesn't really make sense, I am assuming there is more than meets he eye going on there.

Also for sh!ts and giggles, here's comparison with previous stock turbo (just with exhaust, pod and tune).

post-83859-0-94056400-1404296609_thumb.jpg

When I get a chance will take some photos of install (looks very neat), and hopefully can feedback on driving impressions.

Also for sh!ts and giggles, here's comparison with previous stock turbo (just with exhaust, pod and tune).

When I get a chance will take some photos of install (looks very neat), and hopefully can feedback on driving impressions.

That comparison looks a heap better when comparing apples for apples. So is your Nistune setup running VCT? If that's not with VCT and there is more boost available then the result starts seeming a lot more understandable. Driving (ie, response) should give a fair bit more of an impression of how well it works :)

Thanks for keeping us updated through it all!

I have the Z32 ECU with Nistune so should still have VCT.

Aiming to get a decent drive in on the weekend, but power does feel great when it comes on. But impossible for me to gauge how it is compared to other setups except stock.

OK, interesting.

When you drove it did it feel conspiciously laggier than the stock turbo? A typical "full boost at 3750rpm" combo would feel very noticeable. Maybe we should just let you get the weekend and have a proper go? :D

Perth dyno's always read lower :whistling:

Yep just throw more boost into it once the control issue is sorted.....as it one thing the GTX's seem to thrive on.

Please post up pics.

Edited by juggernaut1

I thought the z32 ecu needs an additional window switch to control the vct.

Mat only very recently added vct control to the z32 ecu's. I would look into whet you actually have it or not.

A quick way would be disconnect vct plug and go for a drive. If it's the same you need to get it working.

Contact matt at nistune about the update.

  • Like 1

Yep. I got z32 and r32 confused!

Still worth checking as I mentioned.

Sounds easy enough to check. I assume it won't hurt anything if unplugged?

Lith, it definitely feels laggier than stock turbo. Need to get out on the weekend when less traffic around so I can try and get a better feel of when boost builds. I will say though that it feels like it ramps up real quick, whereas on dyno plot looks like more of a gentle increase.

Josh did mention that PZP's dyno tends to read low, but I'm not going to put any stock in that unless I can confirm somewhere else.

Can I also get some advice from you guys? I was told that to make use of higher boost, I really needed to look into freeing up flow more (cams, cam gears, and possibly freer exhaust). I was told the turbo actually has quite a bit more to give seeing as GTX series like higher boost, but couldn't get there without these changes. Does that sound right?

Definitely won't damage anything driving with the vct plug unplugged.

I wouldn't think cams are the best use of money at this stage.

Cam gears perhaps, but the dyno time to dial them in might not be worth it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...