Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

every week there is a new thread asking about GCG hi flows vs HKS GTseries bolt on upgrades for 33's.

I myself went the HKS, but still strongly considered the GCG.

I thought it would be interesting if we get a few cars together with the above mentioned upgrades and do some road tests, as i think it would be great to put them side by side and compare lag vs top end etc.

Mainly im interested in seeing them side by side rolling runs from 2nd, 3rd, 4th etc.

Id also be keen to go for a ride in a GCG hiflow fitted 33 for seat of pants comparison.

Would anyone be interested in getting together for this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42013-hksgt-head-to-head-with-gcg-h-flow/
Share on other sites

I'd love to see the turbo swapped on the same R33 GTS-t rather than 2 different cars with diff engines and mods etc with dyno runs done. Quite difficult/expensive to do I know...

I wonder if GCG themselves would like to do it on a car for a day, imagine the sales they would generate if they put aside a day to do this.

Shouldn't be too hard if you compare an HKS GT3040 vs. Garrett GT30 (GCG) on an R33 GTS-t with a high mount manifold.

But this isn't indicative of other turbo pairings though... You'd have to compare them all doing a straight swap on the same car to get a definitive comparison.

yeah ive thought about that too in order to do a critical comparison, but for real world comparison each person is going to have a diferent tuner anyways. Im not talking so much about power but more how they drive. Also it should be easier to get a group of cars together than to find someone who wants to swap their HKS for a GCG or vice versa.

yeah ive thought about that too in order to do a critical comparison, but for real world comparison each person is going to have a diferent tuner anyways.  Im not talking so much about power but more how they drive.  Also it should be easier to get a group of cars together than to find someone who wants to swap their HKS for a GCG or vice versa.

If you compare two different cars for the aim of having an honest comparison about the turbos, you HAVE to factor in all the other differing mods done to the cars. Hell, something as small as one person having new APEXi pods and the other one dirty HKS pods can produce as much as 5rwkw difference, let alone cams, throttle bodies, head work, ECU tuning, engine compression, etc etc etc...

Those kinds of comparisons are fine for good fun (like we're doing down in Melbourne in a few months re: GTR low mount turbo choices), but it's hardly a scientific comparison.

word up, should be an awesome comparsion. i hear heaps that the 2530 is too small for rb25 and that gcg 450hp highflow is sweet, but ive also heard gcg hiflow isnt as good (MRK-25T ??). I'd love to see a mod list from a few cars that have both so we can see what gets what. should be a great topic

For the power you have around (227rwkw wasnt it) wasnt your 1/4 mile around the 13.0 @113???  If it was that is very impressive !!!
According to my website it is 13.0@113mph with a 2.3 60ft, so he has easy 12.7's waiting for him with a decent launch :)

Don't think i'm invited, rb20 with stage 2 gcg highflow. It brings new meaning to the term laggy :)

boost curve is something like:

2000rpm 0psi

2500rpm 0psi

3000rpm 1psi

3500rpm 3psi

4000rpm 6psi

4200rpm 12psi :(

i only run 12psi atm until the new injectors go in next month and the car gets a tune

makes 173rwkw atm

  • 1 year later...

if it was a joke he wouldnt have asked. justin a highflow is they get your stock turbo change the compressor wheel and ball bearing pack and new exhaust wheel. it enables it to flow more and run more pressure through it as its a better/stronger compressor wheel and the bearings are new. you keep the same size/housing so it bolts back up and you dont have to change anyting.

just take off, send away, get it back, put it back on and you can turn up the boost more. the 2540 is a mismatched turbo so either 2530 or 2535 or gt-rs. search on 2540 and lag. youll find heaps of threads covering the 2540 being extra laggy due to a mismatch

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given you're running a 2.8 and my 2.5 is not really like for like, I suspect there could be a bit more timing you could give it. What is the kW yield per degree you're putting through it? Here's my E85 map to give you an idea, where it was I could still get another 3~4kW per degree thrown at it.  
    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
×
×
  • Create New...