Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ryno: I have heard good things about them from a couple of tuners, however.... trent hates them with some interesting passion.....

Trent: a workshop i tune at here in the UAE, purchsed 25 Wolf 3d units a LONG time ago, and they got 23 of them left brand new old stock ready to go.... but the issue is that they won't go... nobody wants them even when offering them at half the cost price!!

trying to find support and info on them is proving to be a mission, i gave up trying. i think they have gone bust?

My Tuner uses Wolf V550s as often as he can, I actually dont like the idea and plan on going with a E1280S based on the previous success I have had with a E420D. I have the dreaded timing jitter and a power FC so I am going to run a crank trigger set up.

Has any one here had any experience with the E1280S Yet? Any thoughts on the E1280S would be great.

Cheers!

what happened to the 420d? they are pretty much the same ecu as the select plug ins are anyway ???

the 1280 is the super ecu... i have used them, they are great but very advanced and setup is not as easy as the select range.

if you get timing issues you should try and run one of pauls trigger discs first, but that requires removing the power fc because they only support oem trigger mode.

Ryno: I have heard good things about them from a couple of tuners, however.... trent hates them with some interesting passion.....

Trent: a workshop i tune at here in the UAE, purchsed 25 Wolf 3d units a LONG time ago, and they got 23 of them left brand new old stock ready to go.... but the issue is that they won't go... nobody wants them even when offering them at half the cost price!!

trying to find support and info on them is proving to be a mission, i gave up trying. i think they have gone bust?

Half cost price eh?

hmmmm

what happened to the 420d?  they are pretty much the same ecu as the select plug ins are anyway ???

 

the 1280 is the super ecu...  i have used them,  they are great but very advanced and setup is not as easy as the select range.

 

if you get timing issues you should try and run one of pauls trigger discs first,  but that requires removing the power fc because they only support oem trigger mode.

The e420d was in my sil80. I no longer have it. Have a r32 GTR now. I don't love the idea of non sequential ignition and injection hence the 1280 idea but I do note that you have had no issues so I need to think more about and perhaps get a select instead.

One way or the other the power fc is going. I have had nothing but trouble with it. If you think a different trigger disc will help I suppose it's worth a go. It's the cheaper option.

Thanks as always for your input mate!

  • 4 months later...

Looking at getting the e420d, on the website it seems the plugins come with base maps, but no mention of getting a base map on this one. Can you download these or is it fairly straight forward to set up without?

Is it possible to still buy new plugs and terminals for the engine loom? or do you have to reuse the old ones when making a new full loom?

cheers.

there will not be a base map on the 420, because its a generic wire in ecu and can be installed on any engine. However when making your order you can tell them what engine you are running and they can email you a base file for that specific engine.

I find that Andy has a start file that can start pretty much anything, and the times that he did not have a file he made one for me within a day or so. even if the trigger mode is not supported he can make a quick firmware upgrade for you quickly as well!!

The support is great. the guy is the ecu professor, you don't have to worry about base files when buying an adaptronic.

I accidently ripped out the usb plug from the ecu board and damaged it. I contacted adaptronic and he offered to send out a replacement top board in advance to get me up and running...

it appears that getting the car back on track was more or a concern to them, no hard warranty claim procedures or its your fault or my fault bullshit that you would normally expect, i even told them i personally broke it... cannot believe it.

Bunta, go with the Select ECU. It's a great ECU for the price, and unless you need/want the super advancement of the E1280S, the Select ECU is really what you want.

I ran the E420C (With one of the very first few plug in looms for my R33) and never ever had an issue due to it being sequential.

Oh and you can't beat ease of installation! Run one vacuum line to inside the car, unplug old ECU, plug in new ECU, plug in vacuum line you just ran. Send car to tuner.

I ended up with a link g4 at a price I couldn't pass up, however I would not hesitate to go adaptronic. When we had trouble with the adaptronic in the sil80 Andy himself was in brissy and drove 45 minutes out of his way to check it out personally. Service with these guys is really second to none.

he drove out to see you ?  hahahaa..  lucky you.

 

he does go out of his way to visit special projects.

Yeah he drove to the work shop to check that the ecu was functioning properly! He was probably just sick of us ringing and asking guestions. Lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
×
×
  • Create New...