Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok yesterday pulled the pipe off that goes between my intake and Stock BOV and i put my hand on the outlet and it feels like air is leaking out.

can i block this valve up cause it feels like its leaking on just idle.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420805-stock-recirc-valve-leaking/
Share on other sites

are they supposed to cause i was under the impression that the BOV shouldnt leak at all only when released when off throttle.

If this is so would blocking the recirc valve like a plate to block it all do any justice or damage to my motor or alter AFR?

Not sure why they leak but as long as the air is recirculating within the piping it is ok.

If it's not plumbed back in, then there is an air leak which causes issues.

Leave it as it should be.

You can tap and grub screw the bleed hole, it works ok, but drivability will suffer. It can shudder a bit when backing off from boost to a light cruise.

The factory put the hole there for a reason, to make it drive smoothly. If you are still on the stock ecu, it's best to leave it alone.

  • 2 weeks later...

ok kool so what if i replaced it with a exit atmo BOV it will play up im guessing also with a 10 psi limit can i put another spring inside the unit or somthin so i can leave it stock and run more boost?

Don't do that, you're going back to the dark ages.. just leave it how it is. I ran 1.3bar though a stock BOV no dramas at all, a simple relatively mod is to crush the top hat down using a vice to put more tension on it.

But you're running 0.7bar of boost, don't waste your time with it.

ok yesterday pulled the pipe off that goes between my intake and Stock BOV and i put my hand on the outlet and it feels like air is leaking out.

can i block this valve up cause it feels like its leaking on just idle.

Its designed this way to stop reversion and to smooth the idle, nearly all skylines are supposed to do it.

ok so what about block the BOV up all together i really hate the noise to be honest ive lost my licence before and i now require my licence for work so last thing i want is attention from coppers with noise my car is stock thought has 3 inch exhaust and yer im abit worried about that aswell.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...