Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So the original P/N is 226806N211 or replacement P/N is 226806N21A.

​Mine died this afternoon, who wants to split freight with me & get a couple?

22680-6N21A(current) and 22680-6N211 is the superseded part.

I bought a wrx one. Should be here today.. if it ficks out ill grab one with you.

So the original P/N is 226806N211 or replacement P/N is 226806N21A.

​Mine died this afternoon, who wants to split freight with me & get a couple?

im glad I'm not the only one who has trouble with afm bloody things, fingers crossed all good and 14 months has passed:)
  • 1 month later...

Hey guys, had to post up a statement of love for these forums. This all happened to me a few weeks ago while giving a bit of a squirt.. basically stalled at 80 and i was stuck on the side of the road. jumped onto SAU on the phone.. search.. wallah I read about this common AFM issue.. unplugged it and it kicked over first go! limped my ass home and ordered a new one using the model codes from this thread and I was back on the road in 4 days (including weekend). Any other car with a poor aftermarket following would have no forum support, and would be stuck waiting for NRMA or a tow truck.

In case anyones interested in another source for this AFM.. try www.CyberspaceAutoParts.com.au

I got the sensor for $220 + delivery.. much better than $307 and 2 weeks from Nissan!

Cheers

  • 2 years later...

22680-6N21A is the one to get. Don't buy a copy one, They are actually designed differently, weigh half as much, don't last and will have your car running B grade.

Speaking from experience..

Speaking from my experience; a brand new Nissan one at $270 lasted almost 3 weeks. I'm not the only one to have the same experience. No warranty, and they laugh all the way to the bank.

I bought a generic ebay WRX STi AFM, and it lasted about 3 years. Bought one of Scotty's Chinese ones; still going after a year.

I'd buy 5 copies before I even considered buying another one from Nissan.

  • Like 1

Fit an Emanage, then you can probably go a Z32 or VQ35 afm and never have an issue again. :)

I'd be willing to bet the Maxi-Rom could probably be scaled to cope with the change as well.

  • Like 1

I'd be willing to bet the Maxi-Rom could probably be scaled to cope with the change as well.

Apparently not when I asked him, as it's just a basic AFM signal bender. If it had injector and timing control it would I suspect.

so did my first afm after owning for year and a half, luckly had one of scottys sitting in the glovebox waiting for the day it expires. so thought i'd get another (just in case),can anyone tell me is there a difference between 22680-ad21a afm and a 22680-6n21a afm, I have both here and they look exactly the same.

Ok well all differing experiences. My Chinese on lasted 4 days. It was designed totally different than the jap ones weigh half as much and give a different curve which caused idle issues and terrible fuel consumption.

It's possible there are 'better' Chinese versions as some have a green seal and others a black. My failed chinese seal was green. The Nissan sensor seal is black similar to so other Chinese copies I've seen on aliexpress.

Matt

Something tells me the Oring color doesn't have much to do with the quality. :P

When you have blown 7 or more Nissan ones at $330 each (like some of my customers), some only lasting an hour or two, you will be looking at other avenues for sure. Took me a fair while to find a decent supplier in China, but they were an exact copy, if not made in the same factory.

Check the WRX forums, the early ones ran the same AFM, they may have a better idea of which ones work.

  • Like 1

I was eluding to the O'ring colour denoting the sensor style/batch/brand to help identify/source the higher quality.

Not sure what point your making if your buying the same sensor from China that Nissan use...cheaper sure but doesn't prove or increase reliability. From what I've found on my last two M35s is failure usually increases with pod filters and power ducts. May be more pertinent to relate the failures to vibration, FOD and moisture

From what I've found on my last two M35s is failure usually increases with pod filters and power ducts. May be more pertinent to relate the failures to vibration, FOD and moisture

I've killed at least 3 OEM Nissan ones, I don't have a pod filter or power duct. They've failed in dry conditions and in wet.. no rhyme or reason. Scottys has held strong for over 12 months now I think? Touch wood.

  • Like 1

There is a always a logical explanation. It just has to be proven. I might dissect my blown sensor.

I'm sure there is as many blown Chinese as Nissan sensors. I would also expect some 'nissan' sensors are reproduced Chinese, box and all

What I can confirm is the Nissan sensor I bought for $160 was very very different weight and hot wire design to the Chinese version that I had. Mapping afm voltage and response also was different. Different curve and smoother response. If you have an aftermarket ecu you can mask a different curve.

The big problem we have on the forum is talking apples and apples. There is a chance the sensor I have now is the same that Scotty had previously. post-49288-14422990779322_thumb.jpg

This is the part that was different in the sensor that failed. It had a component in the air stream rather than a flat metal film like this one post-49288-1442299253898_thumb.jpg

This is the one that failed after 3hours use. The IAT thermistor was also double the size of the current Nissan one which would elude to later technology of the Nissan replacement

post-49288-1442299942684_thumb.jpg

Edited by BoostdR

Another interesting tid bit. If you block off your factory BOV you will induce idle and response issues , low throttle fuel Economy increases/reduction in power.

Why?

The BOV is designed to be open at idle and part throttle which enables the air to bypass the inter cooler traveling from the AFM to the engine via the shortest path. This means that there is a reduction in delay between when you activate the accelerator and when the ecu can inject more air to act on it. Acceleration enrichment can be adjusted to compensate if you have the capability however there is no substitute for a short inlet track. Nissan designed it this way to give the best of both worlds.

Air will naturally take the path of least resistance meaning there will be less vac in your intercooler and piping also giving better transitional response. People have theorized blocking the BOV will increase response but in actual practice this is not the case. The other advantage for our gearboxes is that part throttle will net more control meaning power will be closer to what the TCU is expecting. In racing terms having a accelerator pedal that is linear will away be faster around a track. A blocked BOV will remove most of this linearity give only a small difference from 50% throttle onwards.

I'm no auto sparky but is the wire the AFM susceptible to contamination from oil etc? If so part of it may come down to how it's being handled, i.e are people touching the wire during installation and leaving skin oil on it?

The wire isn't the issue, the afm has an ecu inside it which fails. Could be low input voltage causing it, but I have seen a brand new Nissan afm blow the first time the car was booted, so it definitely isn't dirt or oil causing that fault. The hotwire isnt able to be touched in these really.

The original superseded OEM part number is the one to get, they last many years, it's the new Nissan part number that fails constantly. If only there was a batch of old stock laying around. Until then we are stuck trialling aftermarket afms till we find another good source.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...