Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, today was a big day, i got m first car today. my car is a r33 gts25t BLACK! with 18inch wheels 3 inch system and a 4 inch cannon tip, have been in it all arvo messing with the turbo timer cleaning it and tuning the computer.

it looks pretty stock, just the wheels stereo aluminium radiator, turbo timer and exhaust. im going for road worthy to transfer rego over at my work on Thursday hope all goes well. i have found a few things like low tread on rear tiers and low front pads,

im pretty keen to go on a mad cruise after that but i have to get my exemption first so...... now to the fun bit....

any ideas inputs and mods go ahead and i hope to have a great time with this car i have always lover the skylines and i am really looking forward to getting involved onto the skyline and JDM scenes

oh yeah hows this, its so fresh of an import it still has the japanese rego sticker and service sticker on it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421047-first-car-first-skyline/
Share on other sites

Well done their a nice car, i'm brand new to this forum to but have owned my 33GTR for 2 and a bit years now and it's awesome. Enjoy yourself but be carefully if you are trying to tune it urself unless you have experience tuning turboed cars.

PICS :)

oh yeah, welcome to the forum =)

hey guys, today was a big day, i got m first car today. my car is a r33 gts25t BLACK! with 18inch wheels 3 inch system and a 4 inch cannon tip, have been in it all arvo messing with the turbo timer cleaning it and tuning the computer.

it looks pretty stock, just the wheels stereo aluminium radiator, turbo timer and exhaust. im going for road worthy to transfer rego over at my work on Thursday hope all goes well. i have found a few things like low tread on rear tiers and low front pads,

im pretty keen to go on a mad cruise after that but i have to get my exemption first so...... now to the fun bit....

any ideas inputs and mods go ahead and i hope to have a great time with this car i have always lover the skylines and i am really looking forward to getting involved onto the skyline and JDM scenes

oh yeah hows this, its so fresh of an import it still has the japanese rego sticker and service sticker on it.

If I were you I would give it a service ASAP. I make it a point that whenever I buy a 2nd hand car I give it a service myself (oil and filter change and spark plugs in the least, also fuel filter) no matter how much the previous owner says its been serviced or if it has a service history. Fuel filters never get done for example. After that maybe go a pod and possibly an aftermarket fuel pump and a bleed valve to raise boost? That will give you some power gain for relatively cheap

cheers

stock they make that but 19 years old and detunned a little it made 122.3kw/tonne at the wheels :)

i have a list here of turbo supporting mods and an fpr all sotred its gonna be like a grand for them.

and i have to get new front tiers and wheel alrignment before i even go into supporting mods

stock they make that but 19 years old and detunned a little it made 122.3kw/tonne at the wheels :)

i have a list here of turbo supporting mods and an fpr all sotred its gonna be like a grand for them.

and i have to get new front tiers and wheel alrignment before i even go into supporting mods

They don't go off power at the wheels, they go off power at the flywheel. So your car is making about 160kw at the flywheel.

Also keen to know how you were 'tuning' the computer since you haven't mentioned it having an aftermarket computer.

I really wish kids would stop thinking the rules don't apply to them and try and find ways around them.

Also the mods you can perform are severely limited while driving under an exemption, I agree with everyone else that you won't get an exemption. Since they department base exemptions off manufactures data, power being 186kw and curb weight being 1390kg you end up with 132 kw/ton.

i got told to do the report like dyno and weigh bridge and send that in with the exemption paper work.

it has a disc we got told to install on my laptop and it is some weird program and cable you plug into and obd2 port and you can do the fuel to air, ign timing, idle sped, boost control (dosnt seem to work being there is on ebc in it)

i know some people may think im just a teenager wanting a fast car and will be stupid with it, but i have always loved skyline, they are my dream car, i dont plan on doing crazy hoon stuff in it i plan on using it like any normal road user following the road rules and if i want to be a hoon ill take it over to lakeside or find a track i can go to. plus im to scared i would crash it, it is to much of a nice car to ruin.

im not trying sound like a smart ass or anything i am just trying to go the way i have been told to go about getting the exemption.

Not saying you are a young idiot with a turbo, but we do get a lot of the on SAU. As we said you can try and get the exemption but you have next to 0% chance of getting it.

As for the disc is there a manufactured name on it?

Take a screen shot of the program. It is probably just some consult program such as ecutalk or conzult. These don't actually allow you to tube the car, just diagnose things, and temporarily alter things.

If by chance you do have done sort if aftermarket ecu and program to tune it, unless you have a wideband o2 sensor and know what you are doing, don't play around with the settings. You could end up doing some serious damage to the engine.

As for not being a hoon. You just keep telling yourself that if it makes you feel better. I'm not trying to be a smart arse (well actually i am) but any teenage who is trying to get around three law and get an exemption to drive a turbo on their p's isn't going to just drive around like a grandma. You have little regard for the law (since you are trying to get around it) so I'm assuming you will have the same amount of disregard for the road rules. whilst I'm sure that you will drive sensibly at times, I'm sure that at other times you will fit right into the stereotype the media likes to portray. So you can post back saying that i don't know you and you are intact a sensible driver, or something similar, but i won't believe you. You might think you are going to be sensible, but it won't be long before a commodore pulls up next to you at the traffic lights and you decide to show them who's faster.

As mentioned above, what your car makes at the wheels is completely irrelevant in regards to getting an exemption. It would make considerably less than the 125kw/t threshold at the wheels but given it is power at the flywheel and it is a FACTORY figure, you won't be allowed an exemption.

You won't be successful in being granted an exemption to drive high-powered vehicles through hardship or any other reason, given you just went out and purchased a car you can't legally drive for more than you could have purchased a rwc you could. You'll be told to buy another legal car or sell it and then buy another legal car. Ignorance is no excuse for not following the law.

As mad said, your confidence that you can fluant and that you'll receive an exemption to drive it would be the same confidence you showed before you wrapped it around a tree and killed yourself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...