Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Go to driver's side strut tower, locate the boost solenoid (small tube looking thing), pull the whose off with a white band on it, squish it, it should feel hard (piece of plastic in there), cut that bit off (so you remove the white band/plastic restricter thing), put the hose back on, enjoy 12psi.

Without knowing the condition of the 20 year old standard turbos, I wouldn't suggest anything over 12 psi unless you WANT to blow the turbos. Keep it sensible until you are ready to upgrade them.

Stock boost for the R32 GTR is around 0.7 Bar = 10.9 Psi.

Well that's what mine ran at.

If you don't know the condition of the stock turbos don't run anything above 0.8 Bar = 12 Psi.

Stock boost for the R32 GTR is around 0.7 Bar = 10.9 Psi.

Well that's what mine ran at.

If you don't know the condition of the stock turbos don't run anything above 0.8 Bar = 12 Psi.

thanks mate only one who gave me a straight answer haha cheers

thanks mate only one who gave me a straight answer haha cheers

:)

​Just in regards to your bigger front mount intercooler, you were better off spending the money on Down and Front Pipes with a High Flow Cat.

Giving your GTR a full exhaust upgrade will benefit you more at this stage, if you just want to keep it stock-ish...

Stock GTR front mount intercooler can handle 300+ kW's.

But anyway, all for the better in the long run.

Sorry to butt in. On the subject of stock engine and boost, I'm running a very healthy R33 Rb in my 32-r and I'll upgrade to N1 steal wheels with ceramic coatING on the hot side, what's a good boost for me while still being on the safe side?

Sent from my SC-03D

What N1 turbos you getting?

From memory they came from factory running about 1 Bar = 14.7 Psi.

(R32 GTR Nismo & N1 / R33 GTR N1 / R34 GTR V-Spec N1 & V-Spec II N1 / V-Spec II Nur / M-Spec Nur)

You could run a tad higher 1.1 Bar = 15.9 Psi / 1.2 Bar = 17.4 Psi.

My GTR has the R33 N1s and I have been running 22psi on them for the last 2 years on E85. I think I have stock bottom end. I don't drive it at that boost all day if that helps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...