Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

GT30 time now so I need a bell mouthed dump/front and inlet pipe to connect the 4"/100mm inlet to the Z32 in the std airbox position - and retain the std recirc and breather plumbing . Black rubber/silicon joiners too if possible .

I rang Liverpool Exhausts and they have nothing off the shelf and would need car to fit , difficult since this dryer isn't fitted yet .

It sounds like Mick or Scott may be able to make these pipes up provided they have jigs to do it because you can't have my daily driven car .

I just need functional stuff that's neat and inconspicuous if possible so the changeover is quick and painless . Not going to argue over dollars because the stuff you turn out looks pretty good .

For the record the dryer is a GT3076R with the GT30 IW five bolt outlet side like an XR6 has only in 0.82AR . Externally identical to Mickos GTX3071R in every way .

If you can help me out please reply or PM , thanks in advance cheers Adrian .

Edited by discopotato03

I had a good look at a certain white 34 getting a GTX3076 fitted at Edge Motorworks yesterday. There was plenty of room for a 30mm spacer, but the 20mm one looked to work perfectly.

T3 spacers are available in 10 13 16 and 20mm thicknesses , 20 is what I'll try to make sure a T04S housing clears if I ever had to use one ie HTA76 etc .

Sonic or GCG seem to have everything except a bell mouthed GT30IW dump pipe so that will have to be made up to suit .

I know people sometimes go big in the tube size but I reckon 3" should be good enough for 300-330 wheel wasps .

I'm going to use the existing coolant and oil fittings from the GTRS kit .

I'm keen to see how the mid trim GT30R goes , once you make the jump to T3 flanged GT30 based turbos it opens up all sorts of possibilities you don't get with GT28 based ones . This is not to say that GTRSs are useless on RB25s and they are a very easy upgrade on a standard engine/car . Not the tool of choice if you want to double the engines output but lots better than the standard ceramic Hitachi turbo .

Anyway someone here , checkbuzz I think , claims his 0.82 52T GT3076R boosts pretty much like his GTRS did but made more power everywhere . That was on an unopened 33 25 from memory and burning PULP .

If Scotty can tune up maybe 320 and have it drive as well or better than it does now I'll be real happy .

Cheers A .

Checkbuzz either had an issue with the setup or is looking at a dyno sheet. The GT-RS is much more responsive than a GT30 based turbo but doesn't go close to have the legs...as you would expect from looking at the turbine.

Yeah looking at them the GT30 hot side is considerably larger . I wouldn't have thought the 52T cold side would make a huge difference spool wise over a 56T but time will tell the difference between it and the GTRS .

Today I bought the manifold and dump studs/nuts and most of the gaskets and copper washers . GCG doesn't have the 20mm spacer available ATM though they stock their GT30IW dump pipe . Its separate dump tube could be larger and formed to a more useful shape at the turbo outlet flange . I looked at pics of XR6T dump pipes and lots of those are made the same way .

A .

Looking forward to seeing how it goes, and how you find it. There is no way it is going to have the low down punch of the GT-RS - however it should be quite liveable, considering a 56T is. Just a different kind of beast, and one which is much nicer suited to the engine it is on.

Most people seem to think that GTRSs are a 250+ KW PULP turbo and I think the E70 allows me to keep the boost and timing up which made 271 at the rollers .

To make more and have the engine a bit more free spinning means more turbine and housing so GT30 hot side is the way to do it . Lith we know that the GT37 compressors are good but later designs are creeping ahead . The 52T GT37 wheel in theory pumps right about what I want which is in between what the available GTX ones do . Arguably a HTA GT30 may do better all round but I own this turbo so why not use it . When tuned and I get to fiddle with the low load numbers I can draw my line in the sand and know if its just right - for me .

Will post up as it happens , cheers A .

250kw+ PULP is pretty ambitious really - as you can probably tell by "only" making 271kw using E70 etc.

Agreed, HTA would be the way to go if you were in that position but having a 52trim there and knowing you won't be looking for insane power means there is no justification in a big change - any ETA for this?

I prefer a single 20mm T3 spacer if anyone knows of any in Sydney , GCG Sonic and Liverpool can't supply ATM .

The studs I have are 41mm so around 20 the limit allowing for the turbo flange and nuts .

Does anyone have a 20mm T3 spacer they can sell me , prefer one 20 to two 10s .

Timeline probably a week after I have all the bits .

A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...