Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Update: BR series Bc coilovers (8mm/kg fronts 6mm/kg rears) ordered, big thanks to Dan at Option 1 great guy to deal with :)

  On 16/04/2013 at 1:50 AM, shnaped_second said:

Neat conversion mate, Who done the fab work for engine/trans mounts and is there much room to play with regarding gearbox and the tunnel?

Mark through Home Grown Customs in Toowoomba did the majority of the fab work, the trans tunnel needed a bit of persuasion to push it out a bit as the engine is as far back as I can get it.

  On 17/04/2013 at 10:43 PM, 34GeeTeeTee said:

The jocks!!!!!!!!!!!!

And i think your missing some wheel studs brah!

Yer was the closest thing to a rag I could find lol

And yeah she's still a 4 studer ;)

  On 18/04/2013 at 5:31 AM, 34GeeTeeTee said:

Your thread needs more skid vids man! Ill do one soon once my car gets tuned! Your bogan beast should be the burnout warrior :yes:

Rear tires are alllllmost cactus, I'm doing a happy laps at qr next Sunday ill get some fly by videos done up :)

  On 20/04/2013 at 3:21 AM, Hanaldo said:

Nice!

Possibly the easiest job to do on a Skyline haha.

Once you have fitted 3 sets, a good air compressor and a good quality rattle gun they are very easy

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Are you suggesting that the kit did a cheap and nasty job of just jamming the wheel in between other things and caused the misalignment? I mean, we normally do this with an integrated crank trigger wheel, not something bodged on. It's not 1995 any more.
    • I mean, given the number of BMWs you own their tolerance for improper torque is rather low. The number of torque + angle spec bolts and non-reusable bolts in one is nuts.
    • Atmospheric vent requires something that doesn't use a MAF for load. You would need a standalone ECU for that.
    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
×
×
  • Create New...