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http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?feature=youtube_gdata_player&v=yEwEv-2cjxk&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DyEwEv-2cjxk%26feature%3Dyoutube_gdata_player

Give you an idea of how badly I couldn't get it to hook up, turned tire to almost the 330ft mark on this run *shakes head* :dry:

Can't wait for some sticky rubber :)

Does it have an LSD?

Just a factory one ATM, was talking to Dan about 1.5 ways the other week. In saying that its still turning both wheels even so the old girl must not be to worn yet

yea mang. your gonna get some launch now boy! remember. soften up thos farking coils. and get mother f**king pineapples to twist your diff!

Yep, drag day tomorow will be on street tires again :(

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Went 13.71 at 104, I think on the day as the track and car is that's about as fast as I could of went. There might be a bit more in it but just not on this set up.

Probley won't go back untill the new cam and stuff goes in :)

Not a bad time mate. :)

Thanks mate, I'm a little disappointed. I really thought it had a low 13 in it with this set up but apparently not.

In saying that I chopped a 2011 maloo ute by alot of car lengths aswell as an evo and a few other skylines on the day (also lost to an Audi r8 by 0.09 of a second across the line lol). I think alot of people think they're cars are faster "time wise" then what they are, I duno it cut a 13.7 and smashed alot if cars so what does that tell you.

Now.... Cam time :thumbsup:

.... 13.7 for a relatively stock ls1 in a reasonably heavy car is pretty good going. Your 33 is about the same weight as a commo with no interior or fat chicks. Most people have no idea how fast a flat 13 sec 1/4 really is.

N20 time... :yes:

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  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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