Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Stock Bov Flutter Sound - Whaddaya Reckon Of This?


Recommended Posts

Techinically its not legal as its making noise.... You will soon get over it as it will get old quickly!

This will not get the bishes moist!

  • Like 1

To your dignity.... yes....

There are SO many topics on SAU about BOV's and not running them, blanking them etc............

My understanding is that you could bend your turbo blades. By Blocking off the BOV the built up pressure that normally gets released to atmosphere or recirculated, has nowhere to go but back though your turbo and as such temporarily stalls the compressor, which can bend or brake the blades, and the stalling of the compressor is what gives the flutter sound.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Lawl! These threads always deliver!

But the whole flutter thing will soon be annoying for a daily drive!

AND you can get EPA's based on it anyway as its still creating a sound!!

In other words, DONT DO IT!

You f*#@Kin idiots..... The 'flutter' sound is called compressor surge. it is NO GOOD for your compressor blades, it slows down your turbo from spooling in between gears and in worst cases, f*#ks up your compressor blades.

Sometimes when people get too ambitious with sizing their aftermarket turbo and get the housing sizes wrong, or over fueling at idle because they didn't reconfigure their fuel map properly after they fit a bigger turbo, compressor surge OR 'flutter' is the result.

The whole purpose of having a BOV is to release the excess boost so it doesnt slow down your turbo in between gears.....its for response.....WTF would you sacrifice response for a sound ?????? fu*kin idiots

Man, I really wish these kids learn about the fundamentals of engine mechanics before they make a total dick of themselves or worse, totally ruin their cars.

Edited by NATAS

You f*#@Kin idiots..... The 'flutter' sound is called compressor surge. it is NO GOOD for your compressor blades, it slows down your turbo from spooling in between gears and in worst cases, f*#ks up your compressor blades.

The whole purpose of having a BOV is to release the excess boost so it doesnt slow down your turbo in between gears.....its for response.....WTF would you sacrifice response for a sound ?????? fu*kin idiot.

You sir are a f**kwit

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...