Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Breathing all good?

yea catch can v4 has done the trip

have not had to deploy the scaveng pump just yet

thats pretty good considering 12x12 minute sessions half at 15psi and half at 19psi

Did you throw in a fuel cooler??

yea i did in the end

fuelcooler_zps1b8723f9.jpg

on the 12 session i had the tank at 1/4 and did a session after 4 laps the secondary pump got noise and the ecu went into linp mode ( fuel pressure protection) so we know that works

restatr car with fuel and all fixed

  • 1 month later...

minor update

been working on these fckers for a while

i want more stopping power

so 996/7 porka cup calipers

380mm full floating rotors(off getting machined)

new brake line, new pads

custom hub adapters and billet dog bones

i was very happy they fit under the 18's

just buy about 7 mm

GRC_0223_zps639581dc.jpg

GRC_0224_zpse503c658.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

rally sprint done and dusted

tops fun you guys should get out there

i almost died about 10 times

fastest time got me 10 out of 80

and more importantly beat the only other r33 gtr out there by 9 seconds( although he won a trophy for our class, should have checked they had me in the right class to begin with...lol)

my first ever youtube video check it... after it uploads

http://youtu.be/joAU_gEKMdA

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...