Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Noticed a big difference ?

big difference, but also noticeable shudder when shift. if you want smooth shift, then keep stock one. got AT check light on once for 0.5s when reduce speed and stop car for waiting red light

The main reason I'm fitting one is that I hope it will downshift quicker when trying to overtake because car is quite laggy so it would make it nicer to drive because stock auto just adds delay...

From what I've read it won't make a difference to downshifts, as that has to do with an ECU/TCU signal or something

From what I've read it won't make a difference to downshifts, as that has to do with an ECU/TCU signal or something

Yeah, that's what I read too, thought somehow the shift would be firmer still even though the downshift signal isn't instantaneous, just hoping :)

Edited by valf

It will be firmer, but it won't increase the response. Only your foot can do that, it's how you stab the pedal that makes all the difference I have found.

Should be interesting taking standalone control of some of the gearbox functions using the Link ecu, I suspect it may not require a shift kit once we set up the map properly. It's a fair bit of stuffing around but it will be well worth it, my gearbox is slipping and slurring into gear at the drags, hoping this should sort it out.

  • Like 1

as Scotty said, it will be firmer. for me, only problem is when in heavy traffic in "D" with low speed, then do brake - acc - brake - acc, you can feel some vibration/shudder when shift up/down.

AT check light only happened once but it disappear immediately after installed about 2-3 days, but now it is more smooth. i think TCU needs some time to adapt transgo kit?

  • 11 months later...
43 minutes ago, blade511 said:

Is this for RWD only ? Forgive my ignorance, but I'd be super keen to do the upgrade if it works on 4WD.. otherwise, what options are their ?

I believe there is an application for every VQ out there so yes it works on 4WD.

  • 4 years later...

Sorted;

What’s the difference between a SHIFT KIT® and a Reprogramming Kit?
DESIGNED FOR DURABILITY: SHIFT KIT® valve body repair kits
TransGo SHIFT KIT® valve body repair kits correct, prevent and reduce multiple transmission problems such as shift irregularities and durability issues. These kits are used by professional transmission and valve body technicians and are designed for normal everyday use and light duty towing.

ENGINEERED FOR PERFORMANCE: Reprogramming Kit™ valve body performance kits
TransGo Reprogramming Kit™ valve body performance kits are made for specific applications. If you have a hard working truck that tows or haul heavy loads, look under ‘Installation Icons’ tab for the tow/haul icon.  If you have a high performance vehicle, look for the performance icon. These performance valve body kits also include additional features such as;

Gear Command™:  Allows full control of downshifting and will hold any gear to any RPM. Retains automatic up shifts in the drive position. Certain units allow manual up shifts on driver command.
Manual Shift Control: This feature fully converts the valve body to manual/stick shift operation – no automatic shifts. Most Manual Shift Control kits also allow you the ability to easily convert back to automatic.
Tuneless: Patent-pending internal calibration technology “tuneless” allows install without the need for additional transmission tuning software or programmers.
In summary: If you are looking to retain shift comfort but want added durability, use a TransGo SHIFT KIT® valve body repair kit. For performance shifts without sacrificing durability use TransGo Reprogramming Kit™ valve body performance kits.

Haha wow, still confused about the kit. I ordered the cheaper one from Summit which has already arrived. Emailed TransGo while it was in transit and this was their response;

Quote

We only offer a reprogramming kit for the RE5-RO5A.  It will provide firm, crisp shift that are not harsh – I believe you will be happy with it.  Our product address shift feel, manual shifting will be the same as it is currently.

They only list one kit on their site for the RE5R05A | TransGo

Checking my box, it does say for Turbo/supercharged applications and the instructions list RE5RO5A so was confused about the zero and the oh

I guess this kit is fine and may just be old stock from Summit? (I got the last one)

n8qWXQD.jpg

  • Confused 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
×
×
  • Create New...