Jump to content
SAU Community

Air Con Tensioner

cowdy

By cowdy,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

cowdy Grand Master

cowdy

Posted
Posted

hey guys not sure it anyone has posted this yet but i did my air con tensioner bearing today it was squealing something chronic!

the bearing to replace is a 6301

just press in and press out

to get to it i took the fan out, undid the pulley and took it out, then i loosened off the tensioner and did the bearing

put the pulley back on and tensioner the belt locked it off and fan back on easy as that.

any questions fire away

nissan wanted $132 for the pulley and that was with trade discount!
spent $4.60 on a bearing and fixed! :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423657-air-con-tensioner/
Share on other sites
sonicz Rising Star

sonicz

Posted
Posted

I got some questions lol. How do you know you needed to change the bearings?

My drive belts were working fine but a little old. I decided to have all 3 replaced with new gates ones.

My mechanic did all 3. When I got the car back, if the AC engages at higher than 2000prm, there is a loud chirp sound. It doesn't sound like a belt squeal, more like a gear grinding.

For example. I go to my car in the morning

Start the car with AC on. It ticks over with the regular "tick: sound as soon as the car starts.

AC is running. I give the car a fair bit of gas to take of quick out of the kerb.

RB goes prruururuRUURURMRMRMR, then I hear a TURRRRCHHHehco through the street because of the AC. Sounds like its doing damage.

I think its because soon as I take of and go past 4000rpm, the ECU will turn of the AC as normal, then turn it back on and thats when it makes the noise.

Its normal for the ECU to turn the AC of at higher RPM but I never used to hear the noise before.

Lastly which bearing type is ishttp://www.bearings.uk.com/acatalog/6301_Bearing.html

cowdy Grand Master

cowdy

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

The one with the black outer casings on them

I knew they needed to be changed because I listened to the noise, and also had the car off and felt the pulley I could wobble it back and forwards so I was like ahh FOUND IT!!.

( here is a little mechanics trick) I got a long screwdriver about 40cm or longer and you put it on the nut of the pulley or on the unit it's self if your trying to listen to bearing noises and you can usually hear the difference between a good and worn bearing. Try this with the power steer pump put it on the unit, you can hear normal bearing noise and use that at your benchmark if that pulley sounds like a dry skate board bearing then quiet simply it's f***ed

As for the Ac in higher revs I have no idea. It could be the bearing making a noise with load on at a higher rpm, but I would take it to your mechanic to get it checked out because grinding is never good from engines

Edited by cowdy
sonicz Rising Star

sonicz

Posted
Posted

Mechanic that put in the belt says its fine. But it never used to do it . I had a look at the AC whilst a friend enagaged/disengaed it. It doesn't look like the belt is slipping upon engagement but rather something else in the AC compressor pulley system is grinding to get up to speed of the belt. I guess I just have to live with it and wait for the AC to possibly break and then replace it with a new one cos I have no idea what else to do besides tighten the belt, which is at maximum adjustment as it is.

cowdy Grand Master

cowdy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

where abouts are you? if your in the Brisbane area you could bring it into the shop and we could have a look, but i agree with steven it could be the clutch,

also you should never have belts over tightened it can cause bearing failure. about 3 to 5 mm of deflection is good to have each way from where the belt sits.

sonicz Rising Star

sonicz

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the offer. I'm in Syd but.

Ah yea The AC clutch probably is the cause then. I assume its is inside the compressor and has nothing to do with how the belt/pulley system is operating? If its going to cost that much I may as well just leave it alone and just replace the entire AC compressor if anything goes wrong.

As for tightening belts, I ordered a set of gates belts from here

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GATES-DRIVE-BELT-SET-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R33-GTST-RB25DET-/110916206167?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d31efe57

The Alt belt 4pk855 that came with it, my mechanic said it was too long. So I had to buy a separate 4pk 845. Its Almost at maximum tight adjustment, still squealing when I start the car after a few hours. I tighten it more, it stops for a few days, and starts again. I have no idea what could possibly cause a brand new, shorter than recommended belt to sequel. There is no oil there. I keep tightening the belt every few days and its tight as.

Ah well I figure if its loose enough to be squealing the bearings should be fine. :)

cowdy Grand Master

cowdy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

That's just the altinator belt right?

Make sure it has a washer on the nut. If not put a spring/split washer in there to try hold it. Also while the car is off. Spray all the insides of the belts with crc's cilocone spray (blue can) for about half second in the same spot do not move the spray it will work it's way aroud

Yeah probably your best and cheapes bet. I just got kind of embarrassed that my car was squeeling. I didn't wanna be that douche bag p plater that's dosnt look after there car

  • 3 months later...
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Should be able to get it from CBC bearings or any good bearing place

Best bet is to pull the tensioner off the car and take it in with you, or pull the bearing out of hte tensioner and take the bearing itself in.

They will be able to easily match it then if the part number isnt right

  • 4 weeks later...
cowdy Grand Master

cowdy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If you have a workshop press that is the best way but if not guessing not get 2 pieces of wood support the pulley evenly and get a drift or something that fits on the bearing to knock it out with. Use that and the hammer and knock it out. To get the new one in. Sit the new bearing in, the old bearing on top and lightly tap the outter race in evenly

Using the old bearing on top prevents you damaging the new bearing

Any more questions or if it was a little confusing just ask away

  • 3 years later...
stewart1 Explorer

stewart1

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeah check that small bottom pulley that goes to the air conditioning mine the bearing was wobbled out too making a weird noise.

In the r33 you just take off the plastic pan cover underneath and unbolt the pulley it just slides off with a few washers and then release the tensioner all the way back so you can get the belt on after.

I couldn't get the bearing to budge so I went to the local wreckers and got the pulley with a good bearing for $10...funny thing they had to take a few off motors before they got a good one all the other the bearings were gone too so maybe a lot more common than you think.

My dad did finally get the bearing out but it took a hell of a lot of pressure.

Edited by stewart1
spelling

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...