Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, sif no premium veyron in GT5?? Delta is s sweet car, and Cizetta sounds mad but drives like shite

ABS one, everything else off. unless 700ish PP race car, then sometimes 1 notch of TC

sounds like my style of playing :) I only do cockpit view in premium cars. othwerwise its GT bumpercam. clutch to have some fun and normal races. Flappy paddles for when shit gets real.... :cheers:

its the only way to play a racing game! and woops maybe not windsceen cam but bonnet cam haha.

Other than the SAU time attack in the other thread, getting pretty bored with this.

Driving the cars is fun don't get me wrong, but fark me the AI is terrible.

Had a race where i was in second with 1 lap to go at Spa, 8 secs behind the leader and was that far behind for the prev 4 laps. By the end of the last lap, i was 3 secs in front, no rubbing, clean pass, yet my lap only improved by 1 sec from the previous lap.

Its like every race, with 1 lap to go, all the AI cars slow down. Makes the game boring as batsh!t.

So then i go on to multiplayer, and every race has at least one 8 year old, driving the wrong way around the track.

I think its time to go back to iRacing. 100x better in every way other than the variety of cars. Close racing, fair racing and challenging.

Oh and my god are the sounds crap. Where they always this bad in Gran turismo

Happens in all of them. Did a 15min race tonight, spun out with 4 mins to go, was 20 secs behind the leader. Within 2 laps I was in front yet my laps where within 1 sec of my others at the beginning and there was a consistent 15sec gap for 5 laps or so.

Takes all the fun out of it.

Not sure what the problem is, but today I flick the PS3 on, chuck the game in, and go to start it. Says I need to update to 1.03, so I click OK. Then the PS3 crashes. Resets, has to check for corrupt files, and restarts again. Happens every time....

EDIT: Found a way around it. Stupid system.

Edited by Hornet2572
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...