Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

20 million dollars.

how many kms do you currently travel?

how hard are you on your car?(be honest)

can you do any work yourself?

will you want to modify?

will it be your daily drive?

all factors in running costs.

Hey Mik - spin those clamps around on the IC piping before closing the bonnet.

(just a niggle of mine and clearance would have to be very close too)

Now go to the shed and keep working on the beast !!

--------------------

Rule of thumb for R32 GTR's. If you can't afford 2 then don't buy 1 :P

As others have said and assuming you do not purchase a dud. The ongoing maintenance costs will be similar (if not slightly higher due to needing quality oils) to any other Japanese 15-20yo car. If this is your first car, I don't recommend a skyline, great car yes, but not for someone new into cars and who obviously has a strict budget. For the same price you can get a lot newer, cheaper, run about.

Like any car if you decide later to drive the car very hard, do not maintain it correctly, or to modify it to output significantly more power, your maintenance costs will increase.

Common Skyline specific workshops include Trojan motorsports and ESP, however any workshop can do basic maintenance. You could probably get one of those mentioned shops to do a inspection before purchase, may costs a few hundred, but it will likely save you thousands if you avoid a dud.

thanks for the help guys

in response to this

how many kms do you currently travel? - about 200-250 a week
how hard are you on your car?on current car 3... on a skyline maybe a 5-6 with an occasional thrashing
can you do any work yourself? currently not much i can by myself, but willing to learn if cheaper
will you want to modify? im currently trying to look at something already modified so i wont have to do it ^^
will it be your daily drive? yes will be a daily

if this is any help :)

Doing your research is a good idea.

Dont forget to look at the "What to look for when buying a new skyline" thread.

The more you learn about it now, the more money you save.

There are heaps of DIY instructions in the forum, HEAPS of money to be saved if you DIY.

I regret some mistakes i made earlier on due to not knowing enough about skylines, so the more you learn now the better. And not sht from mates or gran turismo, but kowledge from expierenced mechanics.

tyran28, on 26 May 2013 - 17:30, said:

thanks for the help guys

in response to this

how many kms do you currently travel? - about 200-250 a week

how hard are you on your car?on current car 3... on a skyline maybe a 5-6 with an occasional thrashing

can you do any work yourself? currently not much i can by myself, but willing to learn if cheaper

will you want to modify? im currently trying to look at something already modified so i wont have to do it ^^

will it be your daily drive? yes will be a daily

if this is any help :)

do you have a preference to the series?

eg, an r32 gtst will be a lot cheaper than an r34gtt due to age and kms.

a nice daily with a little potential would be a v35.

let us know what lines/specifics youre looking into.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...