Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys new to the forum..

I am quite mechanically minded and have fitted an rb25det into a gu patrol.

I am running a stock as a rock rb25det skyline engine. Only difference is using the patrol top mount intercooler.

Everything seems to be running really well, doesn't overheat, boosts fine, runs 7 pound and everything seems responsive. BUT after a very short drive the turbo starts to glow and not under heavy load. And when I do heavy load it the turbo starts to get a brighter glow.. What do I do???.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425529-my-rb25det-turbo-glowing-help/
Share on other sites

There is no restriction full 3 inch straight through exhaust, has a 3 and a half inch brand new high flow cat literally done less than an hour running on.

Waste gate joins to the intake pipe as per standard rb25det.

And the top mount intercooler sealed with no leaks with no restrictions

hows your fuel economy? is unburnt fuel / still burning fuel going through the turbo? that motor will be working hard lugging around a fat patrol

Edited by StevenCJR31

Well couldn't tell you about economy as haven't run it long enough coz I don't wanna blow it..

I'm not 100% if there's unburnt fuel, normally there would be some smoke? Yes? But there is none, it does get some cracklling up when coming down gears.

A lot of people have done the conversion and had no problem with it carrying the wait.. Figured this was a problem someone might have had an issue with in a skyline.

Well couldn't tell you about economy as haven't run it long enough coz I don't wanna blow it..

I'm not 100% if there's unburnt fuel, normally there would be some smoke? Yes? But there is none, it does get some cracklling up when coming down gears.

A lot of people have done the conversion and had no problem with it carrying the wait.. Figured this was a problem someone might have had an issue with in a skyline.

if there was any smoke it MAY be burnt up in the cat ? for the turbo to glow like that there must be fuel burning in it, if that is the case then the stock turbo wont live a long life, from what ive read on here there hasnt been a lot of glowing turbo problem skylines~one or two with warped exhaust manifolds tho! would it be feasable for you to try a front mount ic to eleminate any possible restriction?

Yea can't fit a front mount without removing ac, and by glowing I mean turbo is red hot glowing... It shouldn't get that red from not boosting for heavy periods... In my opinion but I haven't worked With these motors before

Have you checked your timing? Could be that it is heaps retarded and blowing out the burning fuel through the turbo

Checked the timing and set it at 15 btdc With timing gun, and that turbo gets way to red hot.. If the crank was out would the car still run perfect but overfuel/ under fuel??

Sounds like It may be running lean, can be caused by a few things. For example when I bought my curent engine, there was a mix up with the plenums put on it and I got an NA one with NA injectors in it. Surprisingly the Motor still ran smooth (was surprised it ran at all) so took me ages to find what my lack of power was caused by. But anyway that caused my turbo to glow red with just moderate load. So morral to the story, check everything related to the fuelling system.

P.S. surprisingly I don't have 6 cracked pistons from the running lean from the balls injectors :)

Running lean it will generally run well (you make more power lean than rich, to a point). But it runs hot. I'd say that the fuel pump may be to blame, or possibly a blocked fuel filter.

Pull out the spark plugs. That will give you an idea on whether it's running lean

Has brand new vl turbo fuel pump, brand new fuel filter.. Everything runs really well when it's timed about 25btdc, but the turbo glows just not as quick.. Someone said it may be the reg letting through too much fuel? That's why I thought increasing the timing is helping it burn off but still not enough to keep the turbo cool. Thinking maybe aftermarket fuel reg. but I have a mate bringing a wide band over tomorrow before I buy anything so il know for sure..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...