Jump to content
SAU Community

FS: Digital dash and rs232 for stock ecus


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 269
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

just to verify... it will work with stock ecu'd R32GTST?

does it come with PC software? or is that still in development? and will we get the software when u are done? OR can u supply RS232 interface spec as I can then write my own interface (we interface to patient monitors at work we've written about 20 serial interfaces)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just got mine in the mail today. Top marks to Daren on this piece of gear.

For those of you who were wanting a prettier looking version (I was one) I have to say that the pictures do not do the unit justice. It looks bloody nice in real life. If only it was 2mm narrower and would fit in the ashtray cutout I would be 100% happy. Guess I will have to be satisfied with 99.5%

Don't think about it... BUY ONE.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Even if the ecu is piggybacked this will still work. The brand of the LCD is displaytech from memory.

tang0: I havent received any mail from you yet!

PTR33: Thanks for the feedback :) Many people are happier with it once they actually see the unit.  

Impakt

AGHH !

I sent you a mail back with my address etc on it ...

I'mm Pm you with my address now

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah all LCD manufacturers make 20x4 lcd screens with similar (if not the same) size PCBs, so a screen from any manufacturer will work.

You have to remember though that places like matrixorbital and crystalfontz add their own serial interfaces to the screens, which you will need to remove to work with my module.

Also, those places like to sell their screens at $100+ AUD. Do you want a different backlight that bad?

Impakt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey any idea wether this will work on a r34 gtt? The manual indicated that it may work..... If it works with a R34 GTT Triptronic I would get one also.. :) I'm located on gold coast so if anyone has one on gold coast or in brisbane and willing to let me try it out.. PM me.. :(

Almost forgot.. this devices is definitely read-only right? :rofl:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't make it out of your driveway. Both your rear wheels will go in whichever direction they feel. Your Hicas rack or a lockout bar is required to keep your wheels straight. 
    • Updating results.  Using ATR45SS-0 model VS UHF57-900. Those two are very different turbos, different wheels sets with different wheel hub profiles but yet with almost identical result. I’m intrigued with both turbos performance. ATR45SS-0 was a 61mm turbo first developed in May 2020, UHF57-900 was a 62mm turbo developed in March 2024 as a powered up alternative of a G30-900. On paper ATR45SS-0 maxed at 563rwkws, while UHF57-900 maxed at 568rwkws. ATR45SS was slightly more responsive with slightly better power band through the mid range.  Road driving ability, ATR45SS-0 had better throttle response, felt more robust under throttle, as it wakes up earlier. I think G series wheel hub design made it to have higher inertia under light throttle. Doing bit more prototype work in the next few weeks, will update result when its back on dyno again. ATR45SS0 Blue, UHF57-900 Red Chequered tuner's Dynapack hub dyno, E85 fuel. Mod list is in video below video_20240604_114214.mp4    
    • Did you run the power cables for the mac valve to the other side of the car near the fusebox? Utilizing the stock boost controller cables? or did you run new ones?
    • Hey I have a potentially stupid HICAS question 🤣 I'm currently doing a full hicas delete, Power steering pump modified to non hicas, all lines removed from the car along with all electronics. My stupid question is - Do I need a lock out bar? is there any reason why I cant just remove everything from the rear end? I already have a lock out bar but thinking to save a few extra grams I could also get rid of the arms and tie rods as well and just run it with nothing in its place? or would it have a negative effect on handling?
    • Hi how are you guys?  I know i have been absent for years but im coming back slowly guys just wondering if anyone know where the ball joint on the NISMO arm front and rear can be replaced with OE parts?  Also  i know this is not the thread looking for springs and blistein shocks for the 260rs. Please advcie     cheers    yudy
×
×
  • Create New...