Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I'm a p plater from Tas.

I own a 300zx twin turbo, my state has no restrictions regarding turbo cars.

I'm moving to nsw but I wanna keep my car and bring it up. If I keep tas plate and tas licence until I'm off my p's, are there any legalities I should be aware of? I can understand the cops will probably pull me over either way, being a p plater and driving my car (cop magnet) I'd just like to know if there's any grounds for them to fine me or if its illegal for me to drive my car up there?

Cheers, JJ.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426221-nsw-pplate-turbo-restrictions/
Share on other sites

I'm not permitted to recommend doing anything illegal; and I believe that if you're living in NSW after moving from interstate, you have a time limit (possibly a month) to re-register your car with NSW plates.

But if we're talking semantics, I think that if you were pulled over by the police 4 times for 4 checks, you'd probably get a warning 4 times.

Welcome to SAU.NSW :)

Hey guys, I'm a p plater from Tas.

I own a 300zx twin turbo, my state has no restrictions regarding turbo cars.

I'm moving to nsw but I wanna keep my car and bring it up. If I keep tas plate and tas licence until I'm off my p's, are there any legalities I should be aware of? I can understand the cops will probably pull me over either way, being a p plater and driving my car (cop magnet) I'd just like to know if there's any grounds for them to fine me or if its illegal for me to drive my car up there?

Cheers, JJ.

You never moved to NSW, you are in NSW visiting friends.

I know people from VIC who have driven around in NSW for years without changing their license or rego. Hell they even got their rego stickers sent to their NSW residence.

Also with TAS plates they will leave you alone unless you do really stupid shit.

I was once told by a college that cops tried to defect him for something that was legal in another state and as the cops were about to hand out the notice, he objected on the grounds that he had QLD plates and nothing happened.

You only have to adhere to the license restrictions that apply to your license in the state it was issued. i.e. if you can drive a turbo car in TAS on a TAS license, you can drive a turbo car in NSW on a TAS license. You can even have the car rego'd in NSW and it will be legal.

everyone here seems pretty sure so im a bit unsure now.

but as far as i know, im almost certain that p-platers in the ACT can drive turbo. however, once they enter into NSW they have to abide by NSW laws due to the jurisdiction. Similar to the fact that gay marriage may be accepted in a certain country but wont be recognised in a country that doesn't have the law.

So im gonna have to disagree with what is being said here, if the cop really wants to im pretty sure that they can fine you in NSW for not abiding by their P plater rules.

someone correct me if im wrong though.

  • Like 1

everyone here seems pretty sure so im a bit unsure now.

 

but as far as i know, im almost certain that p-platers in the ACT can drive turbo. however, once they enter into NSW they have to abide by NSW laws due to the jurisdiction. Similar to the fact that gay marriage may be accepted in a certain country but wont be recognised in a country that doesn't have the law.

 

So im gonna have to disagree with what is being said here, if the cop really wants to im pretty sure that they can fine you in NSW for not abiding by their P plater rules.

 

 

someone correct me if im wrong though.

I live in ACT. This is wrong. What Wedge has said above is correct. I was driving turbo on my p's including trips in sydney and had no issues at all Edited by dontyellpl0x

I was once told by a college that cops tried to defect him for something that was legal in another state and as the cops were about to hand out the notice, he objected on the grounds that he had QLD plates and nothing happened.

secondary schools tell you this??

/giggle

BOT - why risk it?

2 reason

1. NSW roads aren't good for a 4x4 let along a sports car

2. NSW cops are f**ked and will do what ever they can to screw you over - the problem is, they can screw you even if you're not wrong. Then its up to you to clear your name

I'd leave the car in tas and buy a leaf. they can go 10% slower than the speed limit which is the current 'cool thing to do' in Sydney.

legally, you are expected to abide by the ban list. But I see plenty of P plates in banned cars in Sydney.

if you keep tas license and rego, you shouldnt have any problems.

if you came here on vacation, are you expected to buy another car solely for that purpose?

no.

so long as you adhere to your states licence provisions, you should be fine.

I'm not permitted to recommend doing anything illegal; and I believe that if you're living in NSW after moving from interstate, you have a time limit (possibly a month) to re-register your car with NSW plates.

But if we're talking semantics, I think that if you were pulled over by the police 4 times for 4 checks, you'd probably get a warning 4 times.

Welcome to SAU.NSW :)

Thanks.

You never moved to NSW, you are in NSW visiting friends.

Sound advice there. :)

if you keep tas license and rego, you shouldnt have any problems.

if you came here on vacation, are you expected to buy another car solely for that purpose?

no.

so long as you adhere to your states licence provisions, you should be fine.

Yeah makes perfect sense.

I'm joining the RAAF in July and my training is in nsw for 21 months approximately, not moving permanently at this stage.

Uh - I have a W.A licence and had my licence suspended for three months thanks to my first skyline, being turbo in NSW, and even though I objected being that I had a W.A licence, I still got the suspension, fine, then he proceeded to defect me because I was being "uncooperative"

So I dunno how it works.
But there are ways around it I'd assume.

But I got butt rumped hard.

If your home address is in TAS, and you are required to move to NSW part time for Army, Navy or Air force, you essentially have an exemption right there mate.

Your job required you live on site.
You don't need to change your plates or licence being you don't formally live in NSW.
That is if you are on base or in Defence Housing.

Edited by RBMunkie

Uh - I have a W.A licence and had my licence suspended for three months thanks to my first skyline, being turbo in NSW, and even though I objected being that I had a W.A licence, I still got the suspension, fine, then he proceeded to defect me because I was being "uncooperative"

So I dunno how it works.

But there are ways around it I'd assume.

But I got butt rumped hard.

If your home address is in TAS, and you are required to move to NSW part time for Army, Navy or Air force, you essentially have an exemption right there mate.

Your job required you live on site.

You don't need to change your plates or licence being you don't formally live in NSW.

That is if you are on base or in Defence Housing.

its quite easy for you to get out of your above suspension. The restrictions are placed on a specific license the same as a things like requiring glasses are.

Your license had no turbo restriction on it.

Sounds like you may have not communicated with the police officer in a nice enough manner/were doing something else apart from "just driving".

Thanks.

Sound advice there. :)

Yeah makes perfect sense.

I'm joining the RAAF in July and my training is in nsw for 21 months approximately, not moving permanently at this stage.

I think there are actually different rules for military personnel when it comes to moving and re registering their cars etc (in that you don't have to change every time you're posted) so double check that one but I think leaving it set to your home state would be ok.

Yea okay, that makes sense Kat.

Il follow it up with my case manager though to make sure.

I'm staying with my dad for a few weeks before I enlist, he lives in nords wharf on Lake Macquarie, bout half hour depending on traffic out of Newcastle. I wouldn't mind coming out to a meet or two if there's anything going on up this way??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...