Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

hey guys,been busy in the last months and havent had any time or new things to update about haha.but now i do

Changes & problems.

-The fuel pump gave up on me while on the fwy (cost me $400 that day)had to change to walbro 255 not as good as the 040 i reckon

-Car had a problem it kept shutting off while i was turning or reversing while turning.But cleaned icv and the problem is gone now.

Updates

-I finally got FMIC installed today & its great car goes hard in 2gear(11psi).The manual boost tee needs replacing tho.

-got rims :D Rota grids are on(Blue) 18x9.5 +20 offset.Sticks out a little but its alright for now since gaurds are not rolled yet.if you don't like them don't comment.

-Since i upgraded some things,the way the car handled needed some attention now i got both front and rear strut brace (hicas will go on on friday) car handles alot better than before.Future parts im ordering soon to complete the list are AntiRoll Bar(front/back), camber & coil overs and more just to make the car better.

Future mods

i'll probably start saving up for power fc,splitfire coil packs and upgrade to a EBC

Looks wise

-I like the way it look atm,but maybe i'll change to a carbon drfit style spoiler in the future.

here are some pictures.

Feel free to comment and suggest bits.

post-112075-0-60811700-1381585554_thumb.jpgpost-112075-0-35273100-1381585548_thumb.jpgpost-112075-0-55799200-1381585541_thumb.jpg

Looks awesome landyy

I got very similar spec rims but mine are +22

They did require a roll of the guards though.

Check to make sure it's not hitting anything under the guards, mine was hitting a wiring loom which wasn't tucked up enough.

Love the rims :)

  • 2 months later...

Time for a update.

Intercooler was installed & car is currently running 11 psi.

Since last time,car has now Tein edfc coilovers & i changed to rota fighters(specs 18x9.5 +20 offset) i like these rims as they make the car look really mint..

Car now has front and rear strut brace & hicas removed.

i decided to sticker bomb my fuel cap and added a few stickers.(not over kill or random ones).

*Car now has Led tail lights,i like the look and i'll keep them.All lights have been replaced n got Hid's.

here is the link for the Hid's,very easy to install and i would recommend them for anyone chasing some.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/35W-AC-H1-HID-XENON-Kit-Nissan-Skyline-R32-R33-R34-S14a-S15-200sx-6000k-8000k-/161051422456?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item257f69aef8&_uhb=1

Future mods

-2 weeks time from now Os Giken single plate clutch + flywheel and 2way diff going in :)

things to be done.

-Private plates(ECR33,MYY33,JDM33,SW33TRB) Do give me some ideas for plates or wat you reckon sounds good!

-Ordering a highflowed turbo or might change my mind go top mount.

-660 jecs injectors

-ECU(nistune or power fc)

-3" intake pipe

-whiteline anti roll bar for both front and rear.

-Camber kit(maybe)

-aftermarket bucket seats.

-nismo clear indicators

-toyo r88.tyre i have on atm are achilles atr sport they are ok,but once i get more power i'll change them

might have missed some things.

Here are some pictures of what the car looks like atm.

enjoy and please do comment

post-112075-0-44646100-1390060368_thumb.jpg

post-112075-0-48286400-1390060374_thumb.jpg

post-112075-0-63272300-1390060409_thumb.jpg

post-112075-0-12906500-1390060412_thumb.jpg

post-112075-0-39437200-1390060415_thumb.jpg

post-112075-0-37665900-1390060416_thumb.jpg

post-112075-0-55260800-1390060418_thumb.jpg

post-112075-0-44503400-1390060422_thumb.jpg

  • 5 months later...

THE SEARCH FOR HP-Silver bullet slow start.

It's been a while since I've updated this..but the search for power never stopped.Car is almost done & I'm hoping she can push out close or pass 300kw.The body looks the same,only changes are a new set of rims as I got over running copy rims (rotas).Enkei rpf1 18x9.5 + 15 all round wrapped in star fire RSR(excellent all round tyres tbh & i would recommand them to anyone).I've gone with a low mount set up with external gate & the turbo is the latest hyper gear with a op6 rear housing.Top mount here is a 100% yellow sticker so kinda playing safe & not wanting to get done by the donut eaters.This is just the mods I've got & I'll post actual vid n dyno results once car is done.

-Greddy Ebc

-Hyper gear turbo

-Utra gate

-Steam pipe mani

-Os giken single plate clutch

-660cc jecs

-Z32

-255(might upgrade)

-Greddy fpr

-Split fire coils

3" to a hks dragger exhaust(bigasf)

& a nistune.Thinking of getting rid of it & getting a PFC though.Few things I'll do such as brake upgrade,2way dif & anti roll bars along the way

I've learnt to do all work by myself with the help of my brother so yeah it takes time,but we'll get there..

  • 2 weeks later...

Worst of the worst has happened to me. 2/12 studs snapped, managed to get one out using drill & easy out.The second was pure bad luck, the stud snapped & once drilled, inserted the easy out, the easy out snapped into the snapped stud.My brother went to drill it out and since the easy out is a hardened he pushed too hard & drilled into the head(5mm-10mm).Worst nightmare. car is sitting in the garage untouched since Saturday. I believe he has drilled into the oil barrel. My question is amI f**ked & will need a new head,will that affect my tune/car in the future or would the new studs block off the hole?.The drill bit was 3.5mm I believe. Smelled of oil n thats all I could see when we took out the drill bit. Any input will be helpful especially someone who has done this before. I've done heaps on my car from coilivers to clutch with my brother & everything between, by far this is the biggest f*k up haha.I'm depressed now lol.thanks in advance.

That sucks man. Easy outs are very hit and miss and need to be used with care as you now know.

For future reference there are mobile thread repair businesses that are experienced and have all of the right tools to do the job easily (they typically don't use easy outs)

Depending on what has actually been drilled it is posible to repair it. Either by welding or tapping larger for a plug.

Best thing would be to remove the head be assess from there.

Edited by Ben C34

Good news the bolt is off. My brother had the same setup as me with one of the hybrid manifolds, the manifold cracked the night before the tune(tiny run)still took the car in for a tune and tuner couldn't get tuned as it spiked so much at 5,000rpm(38mm ultra gate).Soluton was get a bigger wastegate and with w as wastgate pipe.So I'll be going top mount instead. Hybrid is a f**k around and the seller kept arguing when we messaged him about the manifold. DON'T EVER BUY A HYRBID MANIFOLD. THE WELDS ARE SHYT AS.

OH WELL I LEARNED.

Edited by Landyy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...