Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have 300ZX rims and the 255's that we use on the S14 and they are pretty damned decent.

One thing they do need is a really good burnout for the first run but after that they really only need to have the water taken off them and they will work pretty well. Start at about 18psi and drop a little each time till you find the sweet spot for your car

Given cars all round the world are running massive numbers on them i dont think our little street cars really need much more ;)

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I see...

Ive been hearing you cant (or shouldnt) run the ET Street radials with a manual, is it because they dont have any flex in the sidewall to hook up better or? which is what is making me lean toward a non radial drag tyre

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 years later...

apologies for pulling up an old thread, thinking about getting 2 second hand rims for the rear and putting some drag radials on my R33 GTST.

They need to be legal for the drive to and from the track then swapped to other wheels/tyres for normal street duty.

There seems to be way more sizes available (at least in the Mickey Thompson range) for 15" compared to 16".

Will a 15" rim fit over the standard rear brake/calipers on a R33 GTST?

The MT site shows a minimum rim width of 7", recommended 7.5", and max 9" for the 255/60R15.

Is there an OEM rim I can look for 2nd hand that fits the R33 GTST in a 15x7 or 15x7.5?

cheers

Mike

 

1 hour ago, mikel said:

apologies for pulling up an old thread, thinking about getting 2 second hand rims for the rear and putting some drag radials on my R33 GTST.

They need to be legal for the drive to and from the track then swapped to other wheels/tyres for normal street duty.

There seems to be way more sizes available (at least in the Mickey Thompson range) for 15" compared to 16".

Will a 15" rim fit over the standard rear brake/calipers on a R33 GTST?

The MT site shows a minimum rim width of 7", recommended 7.5", and max 9" for the 255/60R15.

Is there an OEM rim I can look for 2nd hand that fits the R33 GTST in a 15x7 or 15x7.5?

cheers

Mike

 

some 300ZX or 32 GTR rims will work fine ;)

If you were in Sydney i could have sold you a pair of ET Streets but if my memory serves me correctly they only have about 3mm of tread when new so a couple of runs and they are pretty much done as street tyres.

On 27/05/2019 at 9:22 PM, ido09s said:


If you were in Sydney i could have sold you a pair of ET Streets but if my memory serves me correctly they only have about 3mm of tread when new so a couple of runs and they are pretty much done as street tyres.

so not suited to driving to the track and back other than maybe the first time of use from new?...

On 27/05/2019 at 9:22 PM, ido09s said:

some 300ZX or 32 GTR rims will work fine ;)
 

was curious if there were OEM 15" rims people were using?

These are the ones I have (link below) and you tell me what the cops are likely to do if they see you using them? Its not exactly a conventional tread pattern is it lol They are DOT approved and we don't have a DOT, its an American thing. Like I said, I believe they have 3mm or so of tread from brand new which is the minimum tread depth that any road going tyre needs to have to be legal

https://www.mickeythompsontires.com/drag-tires/et-street-r#sizes

2 hours ago, ido09s said:

These are the ones I have (link below) and you tell me what the cops are likely to do if they see you using them? Its not exactly a conventional tread pattern is it lol They are DOT approved and we don't have a DOT, its an American thing. Like I said, I believe they have 3mm or so of tread from brand new which is the minimum tread depth that any road going tyre needs to have to be legal

https://www.mickeythompsontires.com/drag-tires/et-street-r#sizes

 

images (3).jpeg

  • 7 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...