Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've had e boost, never again, HKS EVC

You generally get what you pay for

Not always true, I had a HKS EVC and it was the most unreliable POS on the planet, it was replaced by the Greddy and the car now has a better boost curve...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427056-ebc/#findComment-6892086
Share on other sites

Not always true, I had a HKS EVC and it was the most unreliable POS on the planet, it was replaced by the Greddy and the car now has a better boost curve...

That's right thats why I said generally, I have two EVCs now ( 4 & 5 ) and never had an issue, but both came up at good prices when I needed something, so either I've had a good run or your one had an issue, who knows but I know I'd wouldn't ever go the e boost, I spent hours setting up and CRD tried and no matter what we did it wouldn't catch how quick the 32 came on boost, fitted the EVC and with no setting it up had no more problems, been in car for 8-9 years so far

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427056-ebc/#findComment-6892206
Share on other sites

eBoost = great, but overpriced considering it's is just using a MAC valve

Profec = great, decent is price, uses the same MAC valve as most controllers

EVC = awesome, stepper motor holds boost well

Blitz Dual Spec-R = awesome, dual solenoid holds boost so flat you could put a ruler on it

Turbosmart Dual stage = junk, awesome spike

Turbosmart Single stage = junk, awesome spike

,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427056-ebc/#findComment-6893160
Share on other sites

A mate had plenty of issues with the original series, in saying that i believe the retard tuner was partially to blame!

That's right thats why I said generally, I have two EVCs now ( 4 & 5 ) and never had an issue, but both came up at good prices when I needed something, so either I've had a good run or your one had an issue, who knows but I know I'd wouldn't ever go the e boost, I spent hours setting up and CRD tried and no matter what we did it wouldn't catch how quick the 32 came on boost, fitted the EVC and with no setting it up had no more problems, been in car for 8-9 years so far

Yep i know a few that swear by them hence my purchase, as usual i am just unlucky lol

ive noticed alot of people running greddy profec ebc's are they way to go, hold boost like they should?

Yep, do the job fine! Work well on my car!

eBoost = great, but overpriced considering it's is just using a MAC valve

Profec = great, decent is price, uses the same MAC valve as most controllers

EVC = awesome, stepper motor holds boost well

Blitz Dual Spec-R = awesome, dual solenoid holds boost so flat you could put a ruler on it

Turbosmart Dual stage = junk, awesome spike

Turbosmart Single stage = junk, awesome spike

,

:laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427056-ebc/#findComment-6893172
Share on other sites

^ true story, my 180 came with one, first mod was to remove it and sell it. Then my current shitbox came with one, removed it the first day I got the car, and sold it on eBay.

Biggest croc of shit on the planet, essentially it's just a pos bleed valve with a solenoid to enable the bleed or not.. total shit, however their external gates are good. They should stop making boost controllers LOL

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427056-ebc/#findComment-6893203
Share on other sites

^ true story, my 180 came with one, first mod was to remove it and sell it. Then my current shitbox came with one, removed it the first day I got the car, and sold it on eBay.

Biggest croc of shit on the planet, essentially it's just a pos bleed valve with a solenoid to enable the bleed or not.. total shit, however their external gates are good. They should stop making boost controllers LOL

A gate technically controls boost, so therefore would be a boost controller? :blink::laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427056-ebc/#findComment-6893206
Share on other sites

thanks for your advise guys appreciate it. I'm thinking i might go with the Greddy ebc that option seems good value for cost.

I have researched before but it is easier to ask the question and get direct answers instead of sifting through junk on the net.

thanks for the help matt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427056-ebc/#findComment-6893868
Share on other sites

thanks for your advise guys appreciate it. I'm thinking i might go with the Greddy ebc that option seems good value for cost.

I have researched before but it is easier to ask the question and get direct answers instead of sifting through junk on the net.

thanks for the help matt.

You should be right with the Greddy...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/427056-ebc/#findComment-6893897
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Need to see other side of PCB in that area...ie; I don't see any thru-hole mounting, just soldered vias (smd zeners in SOT23 have 3 legs but only 2 are used, as reflected by PCB tracks)
    • 4 to 5 is fine. It will be slow, but that's better than blowing turbos. I don't have a PS pump idle up solenoid on my car, because... I think when we put the Neo in we retained my R32 lines. But.... From inspecton of the R34 vacuum hose diagram, you can see that the solenoid needs to be connected to the turbo inlet as source of clean air) and the plenum (as source of vacuum - which is the place for the air to flow to to cause the idle to increase). So 3 to 1 is VERY WRONG. 3 should go to either the turbo inlet, or the plenum. Follow the other hose from the PS solenoid and if it goes to the plenum, then your 3 goes to 2 2 would also serve as a bleed port for a boost solenoid.
    • Pull them out and pull more apart. You can't do shit with them still bolted to the floor of the car.
    • Yes it is. ZD1 is on the other side of the board. Where ZD1 is marked is clearly opposite a 2 pin device. Our 3 pin device here is not a ZD.
    • Alright, a little update on this... I called Fulcrum, who used to be the distributor in Australia. No Bueno, they don't service them anymore.  Called shock works, who don't service them but offered to dyno the shocks for performance, and suggested DNA in Sydney might service them.  Called DNA, who also do not service them and basically said they try to steer customers away from tein for this exact reason these days- there is just no support for them anymore apparently.  Both SW and DNA said they are a not necessarily a bad product, but they just don't service the brand or know anyone who does service the brand anymore.  So... I could keep calling around but at this point I think I'll probably just spring for the shockworks product, unless anyone here knows anything.  Cheers 🍻 
×
×
  • Create New...