Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can get e85 delivered in drums but it's quite expensive isn't it compared to at the pump.? Better off going water methanol + 95-98 octane fuel preferably 98 octane and water/meth as jet_r31 mentioned.

Cheers Josh

I looked into this a fair few years ago before E85 was available - octane booster will generally raise a fuels given octane by a few points. Ie point-something of an octane. So 98 will become 98.2 octane for example. The only way to get a decent boost in octane is to mix something like Toluene with 98 (121RON, turbo F1 cars used an 86% Toluene/14% n-Heptane filler blend. It's pretty nasty to handle but you could get it in drums as of a few years ago). Mixed at 65% 98 / 35% Toluene this will get you up to around the same octane as E85 at a much higher cost vs pump E85.

I think your only viable options are either reduce the compression ratio of that motor to run 98, run water/meth like Darren said (if you do run water/meth I'd listen to this man!), buy E85 drums or take a trip to either Newcastle or Kempsey and fill up a few jerry cans.

Edited by XR Pilot

Octane booster is also completely unreliable and probably doesn't even add half as much octane rating as claimed. I made some from mothballs and petrol in the 1990s that was probably at least as effective (ie it didn't really do anything).

mythbusters did a test with fuel additives, the moth balls seemed to do pretty well haha

I definitely would not recommend using 98 + octane booster. Due to some flooding that we had a few years ago, I got stranded in my R34 and was forced to use 91 RON fuel as it was the only option I had to get home. I added octane booster as a safeguard. Still suffered engine failure haha :P Thankfully I can laugh about it now! 3 years and counting and I still have not finished rebuilding it!

I would recommend the water / methanol option. But remember, as you are relying on it for everyday driving you need to make sure the setup is ultra reliable and has the appropriate failsafes.

I definitely would not recommend using 98 + octane booster. Due to some flooding that we had a few years ago, I got stranded in my R34 and was forced to use 91 RON fuel as it was the only option I had to get home. I added octane booster as a safeguard. Still suffered engine failure haha :P Thankfully I can laugh about it now! 3 years and counting and I still have not finished rebuilding it!

I would recommend the water / methanol option. But remember, as you are relying on it for everyday driving you need to make sure the setup is ultra reliable and has the appropriate failsafes.

Well that sounds wrong, if you weren't on boost and loading the car up it shouldn't matter. Baby the car and you can drive it on 91 octane easily. I've never seen a car so aggressively tuned on the low load part of the map that it detonates on 91 octane.

Edited by Super Drager

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...